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Photographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


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2?  rC.  r  MAIN  STRE£T 
WEBSTfiR.N.Y.  1458r 

(7H..)  Vn  ■^503 


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CtHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM^CMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notas/Notes  techniques  et  bibliographiques 


The  Institute  has  attempted  to  obtain  the  best 
original  copy  available  for  filming.  Features  of  this 
copy  which  may  be  bibliographically  unique, 
which  may  alter  any  of  the  images  in  the 
reproduction,  or  which  may  significantly  change 
the  usual  method  of  filming,  are  checked  below. 


2l 


Coloured  covers/ 
Couverture  de  couleur 

Covers  damaged/ 
Couverture  endommagee 


Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couverture  restaur6e  et/ou  pellicul6e 


□    Cover  title  missing/ 
Leti 


titre  de  couverture  manque 

loured  maps/ 
Cartes  gdographiques  en  couleur 


I      I    Coloured  maps/ 


L'Institut  a  microfilm^  le  meilleur  exemplaire 
qu'il  lui  a  6td  possible  de  se  procurer.  Les  details 
de  cet  exemplaire  qui  sont  peut-dtre  uniques  du 
point  de  vue  bibliographique,  qui  peuvent  modifier 
une  image  reproduite,  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  une 
modification  dans  la  m^thode  normale  de  filmage 
sont  indiquds  ci-dessous. 


□ 


Coloured  pages/ 
Pages  de  couleur 

Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endommagdes 

Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Pages  restaur^es  et/ou  pelliculees 


I    n/Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 
I — I    Pages  d6co!or6es,  tachetdes  ou  piqu^es 


n 


Pages  detached/ 
Pages  d^tach^es 


□    Coloured  ink  (i.e.  other  than  blue    r  black)/ 
Encre  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleue  ou  noire) 

I      I    Coloured  plates  and/or  illustrations/ 


I     O^Showthrough/ 
l—kj    Transparence 


□ 


D 


Planches  et/ou  illustrations  en  couleur 

Bound  with  other  material/ 
Reli6  avec  d'autres  documents 

Tight  binding  may  cause  shadows  or  distortion 
along  interior  margin/ 

La  reliure  serree  peut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 
distortion  le  long  de  la  marge  intdrieure 

Blank  leaves  added  during  restoration  may 
appear  within  the  text.  Whenever  possible,  these 
have  been  omitted  from  filming/ 
II  se  peut  que  certaines  pages  blanches  ajout^es 
lors  d'une  restauration  apparaissent  dans  le  texte, 
mais,  lorsque  cela  dtait  possible,  ces  pages  n'ont 
pas  6t6  filmdes. 


n 


Quality  of  print  varies/ 
Quality  in^gale  de  I'impression 

Includes  supplementary  material/ 
Comprend  du  materiel  supplementaire 

Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Edition  disponible 

Pages  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissues,  etc.,  have  been  refilmed  to 
ensure  the  best  possible  image/ 
Les  pages  totalement  ou  partieilement 
obscurcies  par  un  feuillet  d'errata,  une  pelure, 
etc.,  ont  6t6  film^es  d  nouveau  de  facon  ck 
obtenir  la  meilleure  image  possible. 


D 


Additional  comments:/ 
Commentaires  suppldmentaires; 


This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  filmi  au  taux  de  reduction  indiqud  ci-dessous. 

10X  14X  18X  22X 


26X 


30X 


7 

12X 


16X 


20X 


24X 


28X 


32X 


> 

tails 
>  du 
odifier 
une 
mage 


Th«  copy  filmad  her*  has  baen  raprodtxad  thanks 
to  tha  ganarosity  of: 

Library  Division 

Provincial  Archives  of  British  Columbia 

Thd  imagas  appaaring  hara  ara  tha  bast  quality 
possibia  considaring  tha  condition  and  lagibility 
of  tha  original  copy  and  in  Itaaping  with  tha 
filming  contract  spacifications. 


Original  copias  in  printad  papar  covars  are  filmad 
beginning  with  tha  front  covar  and  ending  on 
tha  last  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, or  the  back  covar  when  appropriate.  All 
other  original  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustrated  impression. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  .nicrofiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  -^  (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED"), or  the  symbol  V  (meaning  "END"), 
whichever  applies. 

Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


L'exemplaire  filmA  fut  reproduit  grAce  A  la 
gAndrosit*  da: 

Library  Division 

Provincial  Archives  of  British  Columbia  . 

Las  imagaa  suivantaa  ont  At*  raproduites  avac  la 
plus  grand  soin.  compta  tenu  de  la  condition  at 
de  la  nattet*  de  l'exemplaire  film«,  et  en 
conformity  avac  las  conditions  du  contrat  da 
filmaga. 

Lea  exemplairas  originaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  est  imprimAe  sont  filmAs  en  commen^ant 
par  la  premier  plat  at  en  terminant  soit  par  la 
darniAre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration,  soit  par  la  second 
plat,  salon  la  cas.  Tous  las  autras  exemplairas 
originaux  sont  filmAs  an  commandant  par  la 
premiere  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration  et  en  terminant  par 
la  derniAre  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 

Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparaitra  sur  la 
derniAre  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  le 
cas:  le  symbols  — ^  signifie  "A  SUIVRE  ".  le 
symbols  V  signifie  "FIN  ". 

Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  Atre 
filmAs  A  drs  taux  de  reduction  diffArents. 
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reproddit  en  un  seul  clichA,  il  est  filmA  A  partir 
de  Tangle  supArieur  gauche,  de  gauche  A  droite, 
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TKANSLATOH   ANl 


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THE  V 

GEOGRAPHY 


or 


OREGON  AND  CALIFORNIA, 


AND    TBK 


OTHER    TERRITORIES 


ON    THE 


NORTH-WEST   COAST  OF  NORTH  AMERICA; 


ILLUSTRATED    BY 


A    NEW   AND   BEAUTIFUL    MAP 


OP   THOSE    COUNTRIES, 


BT 


ROBERT  GREENHOW, 


TBANSLATOB   AND   LIBBABIAN   TO  THE   DEPABTMENT  OF    STATE   OF  THE    UNITED    STATE8 ; 
AUTHOB   OF   A    IlISTOBY   OF   OBEGON    AND    CALIFORNIA. 


-       % 


4 


BOSTON: 
•  PRINTED    FOR    THE    AUTHOR, 

.    '•      BY  FREEMAN  AND  BOLLES.      , 

^  184  5.       ' 


«    I     mil  jrrifHt^  ''^■'*'"  - 


^W.-IM^PffPi^^it^ 


'^'■sT^j^n*/^'' 


^ 


Copyright  secured  according  to  law,  in  the  District  of  Columbia,  in  1845. 


BOSTON: 

t>RlNTKD   BY   FREEMAN   AND    B0LLK8, 

WABHIMOTOM    aTBEXT. 


^ 


TABLE    or   CONTENTS. 


GEOGRAPHY    OF    THE  WESTERN    SECTION    OF    NORTH 

AMERICA. 

GENERAL    VIEW. 

Great  Natural  Divioions  of  N.  Amerioa,  3 — Coasts  on  the  Pacific  and  the  Arctic  Seas, 
4  —  Mountain  Chains  of  the  Pacific  Section  —  Far- West  Mountains,  5  —  Rocky  Moun- 
tains—  Blue  Mountains,  6  —  Climate  of  the  Pacific  Section  —  Lalces,  7  —  Rivers,  8  — 
Central  Regions  of  ti,  America  — Animals  and  Vegetables  of  the  Pacific  Section  — Na- 
tives, 9 —  Establishments  of  civilized  Nations,  10  —  Political  Limits,  11. 


CALIFORNIA. 

Extent  and  Divisions  —  Gulf  of  California,  12  —  Pearl  Fishery  —  Sonora  and  Sinaloa,  13— ^ 
Peninsula  of  California— Its  Climate,  Soil,  Productions,  and  Animals,  14 — Aborigines  — 
Ports  and  Mexican  Settlements,  15  —  Continental  or  New  California  —  Its  Extent,  Soil, 
Climate,  16  —  Ports  and  Mexican  Settlements — San  Diego,  Santa  Barbara  —  Monterey, 
17  — San  F'rancisco  —  River  Sacramento,  18  — Bodega  —  Cape  Mendocino,  19 — Interior 
Regions  —  River  Colorado  —  Utah  Lake,  20. 


OREGON. 

Natural  and  assumed  Boundaries,  21 — Strait  of  Fuca,  22  —  Columbia  River  —  North 
Branch,  23  —  South  Branch  —  Main  Trunk,  24  —  Far- West  Mountains,  23  — Westernmost 
Region  of  Oregon,  26  —  Blue  Mountains — Middle  Region —  Easternmost  or  Rocky 
Mountain  Region,  27  —  New  Caledonia,  28  —  North-West  Archipelago,  29 — Aborigines, 
30 — Hudson's  Bay  Company's  Establishments,  31  —  American  Settlements,  33. 


RUSSIAN    AMERICA, 


Citent  and  Limits — Russian  American  Company,  3fi — District  of  Sitka — Sitka  or  New 
Archangel  —  District  of  Kodiak,  37  —  Cook's  Inlet  —  Prince  William's  Sound  —  Mount 
St.  Elias  —  Aliaska  —  Aleutian  Islands  —  Michaelof  District,  38  —  Kamtchatka  —  Kurilo 
Islands,  39. 


Sandwich   Islands,  39 — Marquesas   Islands- 
uniting  the  Atlantic  and  Pacific  Oceans,  41 . 


■  Society   Islands,  40  — Project!  for    Canali 


203775 


wm 


GEOGEAPHY 


OP    THE 


WESTERN  SECTION  OF  NORTH  AMERICA. 


GENERAL   VIEW. 


North  America  borders  upon  three  great  divisions  of  the  ocean :  the 

Atlantic  on  the  east  —  the  Arctic  on  the  north  —  and  the  Pacific  on  the 

south  and  west  —  each  of  which  receives,  either  directly  or  through  its 

gulfs  and  bays,  the  superfluous  waters  from  a  corresponding  great  section 

>f  the  continent. 

These  three  great  sections  of  North  America  are  unequal  in  extent, 
and  different  in  the  character  of  their  surface.  At  least  one  half  of  the 
continent  is  drained  by  streams  entering  the  Atlantic ;  and  of  that  half, 
the  waters  from  the  larger,  as  well  as  the  more  fertile  portion,  are  carried 
by  the  Mississippi  into  the  Mexican  Gulf  Of  the  other  two  sections,  that 
which  borders  on  the  Arctic  Sea  is  probably  the  more  extensive.  The 
Atlantic  and  the  Arctic  sections  present  each  a  large  proportion  of  sur- 
face, nearly  plane,  and  comparatively  little  elevated  above  the  sea ;  and  the 
line  of  separation  between  them  is  so  indistinctly  marked  as  to  be,  in 
many  places,  imperceptible.  The  Pacific  section,  on  the  contrary,  is 
traversed  in  every  part  by  steep  and  lofty  ridges  of  highland ;  and  it  is 
completely  divided  from  the  other  portions  by  a  chain  of  mountains, 
extending,  in  continuation  of  the  Andes  of  South  America,  from  the 
Isthmus  oi  ?inania,  north-westward,  to  the  utmost  extremities  of  the  con- 
tinent i-   '  ■:  I  direction. 

Of  '  ,  At)  ,r»tic  coast  of  America  it  is  unnecessary  here  to  speak 
partici  1  The  irregularity  of  its  oatline,  the  numerous  gulfs  and  bays 
enclo.  oc;  .  -  >*  sinuosities,  the  great  rivers  flowing  through  it  into  the  sea, 
the  archipei  >  ,,>p  in  its  vicinity,  and  all  its  other  characteristic  feature**, 
may  be  found  minutely  described  in  many  works.  The  only  parts  of  this 
coast,  to  which  reference  will  be  hereafter  made,  are  those  surrounding 
th  ,  Gulf  of  Mexico  nnd  Hudson's  Bay,  as  many  of  the  most  important 
discoveries  on  the  western  side  of  the  continent  have  been  effected  in 
consequence  of  the  belief  in  the  existence  of  a  direct  navigable  communi- 
cation between  those  portions  of  the  Atlantic  and  the  Pacific. 

The  Pacific  coast  extends  from  Panama,  near  the  9th  degree  of  latitude,* 
wes<";ird  and  northward,  without  any  remarkable  break  in  its  outline,  to 

*  .» '!     vitu<!ep  mentioned  in  the  following  pages  are  north  latitudea,  unlem  other- 


i 


4  GENERAL  VIEW  OF  THE  GEOGRAPHY. 

the  23d  parallel,  under  which  the  Gulf  of  California,  separating  the  pen- 
insula of  California  from  the  main  continent  on  the  east,  joins  the  ocean. 
From  the  southern  extremity  of  this  peninsula,  called  Cape  San  Lucas, 
situated  near  the  entrance  of  the  gulf,  the  American  coast  runs  north- 
westward to  the  foot  of  Mount  St.  Elias,  a  stupendous  volcanic  peak, 
rising  from  the  shore,  under  the  60th  parallel ;  beyond  which  the  con- 
tinent stretches  far  westward,  between  the  Pacific  on  the  south  and  the 
Arctic  Sea  on  the  north,  to  its  termination  at  Cape  Prince  of  Wales, 
near  the  64th  degree. 

Cape  Prince  of  Wales,  the  westernmost  point  of  America,  is  the  eastern 
pillar  of  Bering's  Strait,  a  passage  only  fifty  miles  in  width,  separating  that 
continent  from  Asia,  and  forming  the  only  direct  communication  between 
the  Pacific  and  the  Arctic  Oceans.  Beyond  it,  the  shores  of  Asia  and 
Europe  have  been  explored  in  their  whole  length  on  the  Arctic  Sea, 
though  no  vessel  has  hitherto  made  a  voyage  through  that  sea  from  the 
Atlantic  to  the  Pacific,  or  vice  versa.  The  north  coast  of  America  has 
been  traced  from  Cape  Prince  of  Wales,  north-eastward,  to  Point  Barrow, 
near  the  71st  degree  of  latitude,  and  thence,  eastward,  more  than  fifteen 
hundred  miles,  thouj,-i  not  continuously,  to  the  Atlantic.  The  portion 
north  of  Hudson's  Bay  f  '  mperfectly  discovered  ;  and  the  interesting 
question  whether  the  Arc  a  there  mingles  its  waters  with  those  of  the 

Atlantic,  or  is  separated  iVi ,  .  them  by  the  extension  of  the  continent  to 
tlie  north  pole,  remains  undetermined.  Many  circumstances,  however, 
combine  to  favor  the  belief  that  a  communication  will  be  found  between 
the  two  oceans,  either  through  Fox's  Channel,  the  northernmost  part  of 
Hudson's  Bay,  or  through  Lancaster  Sound,  which  joins  Baffin's  Bay, 
under  the  74th  parallel;  though  there  is  little  reason  to  expect  that  any 
facilities  for  commercial  intercourse  will  be  gained  by  the  discovery. 

The  Pacific  coast,  between  the  entrance  of  the  Californian  Gulf  and  the 
Strait  of  Fuca,  which  joins  the  ocean  under  the  49th  parallel,  presents 
few  remarkable  indentations,  and  the  islands  in  its  vicinity  are  neither 
numerous  nor  large.  North  of  the  49th  parallel,  on  the  contrary,  the 
mainland  is  every  where  penetrated  by  inlets  and  bays ;  and  many  pen- 
insulas protrude  from  it  into  the  sea.  In  its  vicinity,  moreover,  are 
thousands  of  islands,  some  of  them  very  large,  lying  singly  or  in  groups, 
separated  from  each  other,  and  from  the  continent,  by  narrow,  intricate 
channels.  The  most  extensive  of  these  collections  of  islands  is  the  North- 
West  Archipelago,  nearly  filling  a  great  recess  of  the  coast,  between  the 
4Sth  and  the  oSth  parallels.  Kodiak  is  the  centre  of  another  archipelago, 
on  tlie  east  side  of  the  peninsula  of  Aliaska;  and  a  long  line  of  islands, 
forming  the  Aleutian  Archipelago,  stretches  from  the  southern  extremity 
of  Aliaska,  westward,  across  the  sea,  in  the  course  of  the  54th  parallel  of 
latitude,  to  the  vicinity  of  the  opposite  Asiatic  peninsula  of  Kamtchatka. 
The  part  of  the  Pacific  called  the  Sea  of  Kamtchatka,  or  Bering's  Sea, 
north  of  the  Aleutian  chain,  likewise  contains  several  islands,  situated, 
nearly  all,  close  to  the  shores  of  one  or  the  other  continent. 

This  coast,  in  its  whole  length,  from  the  southern  extremity  of  Cali- 
fornia to  Bering's  Strait,  is  bordered  by  lofty  mountains,  which  appear  to 
form  a  continuous  chain,  partially  broken,  in  a  few  places,  by  the  passage 
across  it  of  rivers  from  the  interior.  The  mountains  rise,  for  the  most 
part,  immediately  from  the  sea-shore,  above  which  they  may  be  seen 
towering  one,  two,  and  even  three,  miles  in  perpendicular  elevation :  io 


so 
tra 
en 
ha! 


GENERAL    VIEW    OF    THE    GEOGRAPHY. 


5 


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f 


some  places,  however,  the  main  ridge  is  separated  from  the  ocean  by 
tracts  of  lower  country,  as  much  as  one  hundred  miles  in  breadth,  trav- 
ersed by  parallel  lines  of  hills.  This  ridge,  for  which  no  general  name 
has  yet  been  adopted,*  is  almost  entirely  of  volcanic  formation ;  being 
part  of  the  great  line  or  system  of  volcanoes,  which  extends  from  Mexico  to 
the  East  Indies,  passing  along  the  west  coast  of  America,  from  the  south- 
ernmost point  of  California  to  the  south-west  extreme  of  Aliaska,  thence 
through  the  Aleutian  Islands  to  Kamtchatka,  and  thence  southward 
through  the  Kurile,  the  Japan,  the  Philippine,  and  the  Molucca  Islands. 
There  are  many  elevated  peaks,  nearly  all  of  them  volcanoes,  in  every 
part  of  the  chain ;  the  most  remarkable  break,  or  gap,  is  that  near  the 
46th  degree  of  latitude,  through  which  the  Columbia  rushes,  at  the  dis- 
tance of  a  hundred  miles  from  the  Pacific. 

The  great  chain  of  mountains  which  separates  the  streams  emptying 
into  the  Pacific  from  those  flowing  into  the  other  divisions  of  the  ocean, 
runs  through  the  northern  continent,  as  through  the  southern,  in  a  line 
generally  parallel  with  the  shore  of  the  Pacific,  and  much  nearer  to  that 
sea  than  to  the  Atlantic.  Under  the  40th  degree  of  latitude,  where  the 
western  section  of  America  is  widest,  the  distance  across  it,  from  the 
summit  of  the  dividing  chain  to  the  Pacific,  is  about  seven  hundred  miles, 
which  is  not  more  than  one  third  of  the  distance  from  the  same  point  of 
the  mountains  to  the  Atlantic,  measured  in  the  same  latitude. 

The  dividing  chain  south  of  the  40th  degree  of  latitude  has  received 
many  names,  no  one  of  which  seems  to  have  been  universally  adopted. 
It  has  been  called,  by  some  geographers,  the  Anahuac  Mountains;  and  by 
that  name,  though  entirely  unknown  to  the  people  of  the  adjacent  country, 
it  will  be  distincruished  whenever  reference  is  made  to  it  in  the  fol- 
lowing  pages. 

The  portion  of  the  great  ridge  north  of  the  40th  parallel  is  generally 
known  as  the  Rocky  or  Stony  Mountains.  From  that  latitude,  its  course 
is  nearly  due  north-westward,  and  gradually  approaching  the  line  of  the 
Pacific  coast,  to  the  54th  degree,  where  the  main  chain  turns  more  west- 
ward, and  continues  in  that  direction  so  far  as  it  has  been  traced,  —  prob- 
ably to  Bering's  Strait.  Another  ridge,  called  the  Chipewyan  Moun- 
tains, indeed,  extends,  as  if  in  prolongation  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  from 
the  53d  parallel,  north-westward,  to  the  Arctic  Sea,  where  it  ends  near  the 
70th  degree  of  latitude;  but  the  territory  on  iis  western  side  is  drained 
by  streams  entering  that  sea  either  directly,  or  passing  through  the  ridge 
into  the  Mackenzie  River,  which  flows  along  its  eastern  base. 

The  Rocky  Mountains,  so  far  as  their  geological  structure  has  been 
ascertained,  consist  of  primary  formations,  principally  of  granite.  Though 
rising,  in  many  places,  from  eight  to  sixteen  thousand  feet  above  the 
ocean  level,  they  do  not,  in  general,  appear  very  high  to  the  beholder,  on 
account  of  the  great  elevation  of  the  country  at  their  bases.  On  the  east- 
ern side,  within  a  hundred  and  fifty  miles  of  the  great  chain,  and  running 
nearly  parallel  to  it,  are  several  ridges,  from  which  the  surface  gradually 
declines,  becoming  more  nearly  plane  as  it  approaches  the  Mississippi, 
the  Red  River,  and  Hudson's  Bay.  The  part  of  the  continent  west  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains  is,  as  already  stated,  traversed,  in  its  whole  extent,  by 

•  The  author  of  this  work  ventures  to  propose,  for  the  great  ridge  here  mentioned, 
the  name  of  Far- West  Mountains,  which  seems  to  be  more  definite,  and  in  every 
respect  more  appropriate,  than  any  other  which  could  be  adopted. 


!i 


6  GENERAL    VlciW    OF    THE    GEOGBAPHY. 

lofly  ridges,  separated  only  by  narrowvalleys,  or  plains  of  moderate  width. 
The  country  at  the  base  of  the  chain,  on  the  Atlantic  side,  is  probably 
nowhere  less  than  four  thousand  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea ;  and  that 
on  the  Pacific  side  is  doubtless  much  higher. 

The  most  elevated  portion  of  the  RocK y  Mountains  is  about  the  54th 
degree  of  latitude,  where  the  chain  turns  towards  the  west ;  several  peaks 
in  that  vicinity  have  been  ascertained  to  rise  more  than  sixteen  thousand 
feet  above  the  ocean  level.  Many  points,  which  are  undoubtedly  more 
than  ten  thousand  feet  in  height,  have  been  found  in  the  portion  of  the 
dividing  ridge  called  the  Wind  River  Mountains,  near  the  42d  degree  of 
latitude,  and  farther  south,  in  Long's  Range,  where  the  sources  of  the 
Arkansas  River  are  situated. 

Among  these  mountains,  nearly  all  the  greatest  rivers  in  North  America 
have  their  sources.  Within  a  hundred  miles  of  the  point  where  the  chain 
is  crossed  by  the  41st  parallel,  rise  —  on  the  eastern  side  —  the  Missouri, 
the  Yellowstone,  the  Platte,  and  the  Arkansas,  the  waters  of  all  which  are 
carried  through  the  Mississippi  into  the  Mexican  Gulf,  and  the  River 
Bravo  del  Norte,  which  falls  into  the  same  arm  of  the  Atlantic ;  while  —  on 
the  western  side  —  are  found  the  springs  of  the  Lewis,  or  Snake,  the  princi- 
pal southern  branch  of  the  Columbia  which  enters  the  Pacific,  and  those 
of  the  Colorado,  which  terminates  in  the  head  or  northern  extremity  of 
the  Californian  Gulf.  The  sources  of  the  Platte,  and  those  of  the  Green 
River,  the  largest  head-water  of  the  Colorado,  are  situated  at  opposite  ends 
of  a  cleft,  or  transverse  valley,  in  the  Rocky  Mountains,  called  the  South 
Pass,  in  latitude  of  42  degrees  20  minutes,  which  seems  destined  to  be 
the  gate  of  communication  between  the  Atlantic  and  the  Pacific  regions 
of  the  continent.  In  another  great  cleft,  called  by  the  British  traders 
the  Punch  Bowl,  near  the  53d  parallel,  overhung  by  the  highest  peaks 
of  the  chain,  the  northern  branch  of  the  Columbia  issues  from  a  lake, 
situated  within  a  few  feet  of  another  lake,  from  which  runs  the  west 
branch  of  the  Athabasca,  one  of  the  affluents  to  the  Mackenzie ;  and  at  a 
short  distance  south  rises  the  Saskatchawine,  which  takes  its  course  east- 
ward to  Lake  Winnipeg,  and  contributes  to  the  supply  of  Hudson's  Bay. 
In  many  places  between  the  -ii^d  and  the  50th  degrees  of  latitude,  the 
upper  streams  of  the  Missouri  lie  very  near  to  those  of  the  Columbia ;  but 
no  gap  or  depression,  which  appears  to  offer  facilities  for  travelling  or 
transportation  of  merchandise,  has  been  discovered  in  that  part  of  the 
dividing  chain. 

The  ridges  between  the  Rocky  Mountains  and  the  great  westernmost 
chain  which  borders  the  Pacific  coast,  appear  to  be  all  united  with  one  or 
both  of  those  chains,  and  to  run,  for  the  most  part,  in  the  same  general 
direction,  from  south-east  to  north-west.  The  most  extensive  of  these 
intermediate  ridges,  called  the  Snowy  Mountains,  is  believed  to  stretch 
uninterruptedly  from  the  Rocky  Mountains  to  the  westernmost  range,  and 
even  to  the  Pacific,  nearly  in  the  course  of  the  41st  parallel  of  latitude, 
dividing  the  regions  drained  by  the  Columbia,  on  the  north,  from  Cali- 
fornia, on  the  south.  Another  ridge,  called  the  Blue  Mountains,  extends 
northward  from  the  Snowy  Mountains  to  the  47th  parallel,  bounding  the 
valley  of  the  Snake  or  Lewis  River,  the  southern  branch  of  the  Columbia, 
on  the  west.  A  lofty  ridge  also  runs  from  the  westernmost  chain,  near 
the  48th  degree  of  latitude,  northward,  to  the  Rocky  Mountains,  which  it 
joins  near  the  54th  degree,  separating  the  waters  of  the  northern  branch 


GENERAL    VIEW    OF    THE    GEOGRAPHY. 


I 


1 


of  the  Columbia  from  those  of  Eraser's  River  on  the  west,  and  constituting 
another  nutural  boundary  to  the  territory  drained  by  the  former  strt/am. 
Of  the  interior  of  California,  little  is  known  with  certainty  :  it  is,  however, 
probable  that  a  ridge  extends  from  tiie  Snowy  Mountains,  near  their 
junction  with  the  Rocky  Mountains,  about  the  42d  degree  of  latitude, 
southward,  to  the  great  westernmost  chain,  near  the  32d  degree,  where  the 
Californian  peninsula  joins  the  continent,  forming  the  western  wall  of  the 
valley  of  the  Colorado  River. 

The  territories  west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  abound  in  lakes,  several 
of  which  present  surfaces  of  great  extent :  some  of  them  communicate 
with  rivers ;  others  have  no  outlet,  and  their  waters  are  consequently  salt.* 
The  largest,  called  the  Timpanogos,  or  Utah  Lake,  among  the  Snowy 
Mountains,  between  the  40th  and  the  42d  degrees  of  latitude,  belongs  to 
the  latter  class,  and  is  probably  not  less  than  two  thousand  miles  in  area. 
The  most  e.xtensive  of  the  fresh-water  lakes  is  the  Kullispelm,  or  Clarke's 
Lake,  formed  by  the  expansion  of  the  Clarke  River,  in  a  valley  surrounded 
by  high  mountains,  under  the  48th  parallel. 

The  countries  on  the  Pacific  side  of  North  America  differ  materiiilly  in 
climate  from  those  east  of  the  great  dividing  range  of  mountains  situated 
in  the  same  latitudes,  and  at  equal  distatices  from  and  elevations  above  the 
ocean.  These  differences  are  less  within  the  torrid  zone,  and  beyond  the 
6Uth  parallel ;  but  in  the  intermediate  space,  every  part  of  the  Pacific  sec- 
tion is  much  warmer  and  much  drier  thtin  places  in  the  Atlantic  or  the 
Arctic  sections  under  the  same  conditions  as  above  expressed.  Thus  the 
north-westernmost  regions  of  America  appear  to  be  as  cold,  and  to  receive  as 
much  rain  and  snow  from  the  heavens,  as  those  surrounding  Baffin's  Bay, 
or  those  in  their  own  immediate  vicinity  in  Asia;  but  in  the  countries  on 
the  Pacific  side  corresponding  in  latitude  and  other  respects  with  Wis- 
consin, Canada,  Nova  Scotia,  and  Newfoundland,  the  ground  is  rarely 
covered  with  snow  for  more  than  three  or  four  weeks  in  each  year,  and  it 
often  remains  unfrozen  throughout  the  winter.  In  the  countries  on  the 
west  coast,  opposite  to  Virginia  and  Carolina,  the  winter  is  merely  a  wet 
season,  no  rain  falling  at  any  other  time;  and  in  the  Californian  peninsula, 
which  is  included  between  the  same  parallels  of  latitude  as  Georgia  and 
Florida,  the  temperature  is  as  high  as  in  Jiny  tropical  region,  and  many 
years  in  succession  pass  by  without  a  shower. or  even  a  cloud.  It  is 
likewise  observed,  especially  between  the  30th  and  the  50th  parallels,  that 
the  interior  portions  of  the  Pacific  section  are  much  m.ore  dry,  and  the 


one  or 
reneral 
If  these 
I  stretch 
re,  and 
ftitude, 
Cali- 
jxtends 
iing  the 
]umbia, 
near 
Ihich  it 
(branch 


*  Wherever  water  runs  on  or  passes  throujrh  the  earth,  it  meets  with  salts,  in 
quantities  greater  or  less,  according  to  the  structure  of  the  soil,  and  the  space  passed 
over  or  through:  these  salts  it  dissolves,  and  carries  to  its  final  recipient,  either  the 
ocean,  or  some  lake  or  marsh,  or  sandy  region,  having  no  communication,  either  above 
or  below  the  surface,  with  any  lower  recipient;  and,  as  the  water  can  only  escape 
naturally  from  this  recipient,  by  evaporation,  which  cannot  abstract  a  single  siiliiie 
particle,  it  follows,  as  a  necessary  consequence,  that  the  salt  must  always  be  accumu- 
lating there.  Thus  the  Dead  Sea,  which  has  no  outlet,  is  saturated  with  salts,  while 
the  Lake  of  Tiberias,  from  which  it  receives  its  waters  through  the  Jordan,  is  per- 
fectly fresh  ;  and  innumerable  other  instances  may  be  cited.  In  like  manner,  the 
groimd  in  countries  from  which  the  water  is  not  regularly  carried  off  by  streams  or 
infiltration,  is  generally  impregnated  with  salt ;  of  wliich  examples  are  offered  in  tlie 
high  plains*  of  iMexico,  in  some  valleys  west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  in  many 
parts  of  the  United  States.  Tiie  reverse  may  not  be  always  true  ;  but  the  saltness  of 
a  large  body  of  water,  or  a  large  extent  of  ground,  affords  strong  reasons  for  suspect- 
ing the  want  of  a  drain  from  it  into  a  lower  recipient. 


I 


8 


GENERAL    VIEW    OF    THE    GEOGKAPHV. 


difference  in  temperature  between  the  day  and  the  succeeding  night  is, 
at  all  seasons,  but  particularly  in  summer,  greater  than  in  the  countries 
nearer  to  the  ocean.  It  is  scarcely  necessary  to  add,  that,  in  territories 
so  scantily  and  irregularly  supplied  with  water,  the  surface  must  be,  in 
general,  bare  and  destitute  of  vegetation;  and  such  is  the  character  of 
the  greater  portion  of  the  continent  west  of  the  dividing  range  of 
mountains. 

The  central  regions  of  the  continent  east  of  the  Rocky  Mountains 
exhibit,  though  in  a  less  degree,  the  same  peculiarities  of  climate  with 
those  adjoining,  in  the  Pacific  section.  The  vast  plains,  extending  from 
the  vicinity  of  the  dividing  chain  towards  the  Mississippi,  south  of  the 
50th  parallel  of  latitude,  are  almost  as  arid  and  barren  as  the  countries  on 
the  other  side  of  the  ridge;  the  rains  are  neither  frequent  nor  heavy 
during  the  warm  months,  and  the  surface,  except  in  a  few  spots  near  the 
rivers,  consists  of  sand  and  sandstone  strongly  impregnated  with  salt, 
and  affords  support  only  to  stiff  grass  and  shrubs.  Descending  towards 
the  Mississippi,  the  climate  and  soil  become  more  favorable  to  vegetable 
life,  and  the  country  gradually  assumes  the  characters  of  the  other  Atlan- 
tic regions.  North  of  the  50th  parallel,  there  is  more  rain  or  snow,  at  all 
seasons,  on  each  side  of  the  ridge,  though  less  on  the  west  than  on  the 
east ;  the  intensity  of  the  cold,  and  its  long  duration,  particularly  on  the 
eastern  side,  render  those  territories  almost  all  uninhabitable  by  those 
who  depend  on  agriculture  for  subsistence. 

In  consequence  of  this  greater  aridity  of  the  climate  on  the  western  side 
of  America,  the  irregularity  of  the  surface,  and  the  proximity  of  the 
dividing  chain  of  mountains  to  the  coast,  the  rivers  on  that  side  are 
generally  neither  so  long,  nor  so  abundant  in  water,  nor  navigable  to 
such  distance.s  from  their  mouths,  as  those  which  fall  into  the  Atlantic. 
The  Columbia  and  the  Colorado  are  the  only  streams  known  to  flow  from 
America  into  the  Pacific,  which  can  be  compared,  in  any  of  these 
respects,  with  several  in  the  other  sections  of  the  continent;  yet  they 
are  each  certainly  inferior  to  the  St.  Lawrence,  the  Mississippi,  the 
Orinoco,  the  Amazon,  and  the  Plate,  and  probably,  also,  to  the  Macken- 
zie. These  and  the  other  rivers  of  Western  America  run,  in  nearly  their 
whole  course,  through  deep  ravines,  among  stony  mountains ;  and  they 
aro,  for  the  most  part,  crossed  at  short  intervals  by  ledges  of  rock,  pro- 
ducing falls  and  rapids,  which  render  all  navigation  on  them  impossible, 
and  to  overcome  which,  all  the  resources  of  art  would  be  unavailing. 

In  the  territory  east  of  the  dividing  chain,  and  south  of  the  50th  paral- 
lel of  latitude,  are  many  rivers  flowing  from  the  mountains  to  the  Missis- 
sippi ;  but  none  of  them  seem  calculated  to  serve  as  channels  for  commu- 
nication between  the  Atlantic  and  the  Pacific  regions.  The  Missouri  and 
the  Yellowstone  each  take  a  devious  course;  so  that,  after  ascending 
either  of  them  to  the  head  of  its  navigation,  the  distance  to  the  habitable 
countries  on  the  Pacific  is  almost  as  great  as  from  a  point  on  the  Missouri, 
more  than  fifteen  hundred  miles  below.  The  Platte  flows  nearly,  under 
the  42d  parallel  of  latitude,  from  its  source  in  the  South  Pass,  the  princi- 
j)ni  cleft  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  to  the  Missouri,  precisely  in  the  direc- 
iio:i  most  favorable  for  intercourse  between  the  Mississippi  and  the 
Columbia  countries;  but  it  is  the  most  shallow  of  all  large  rivers:  travers- 
hi'T  a  surface  nearly  plain,  the  increase  of  its  waters,  produced  annually 
by  the  rains  and  melting  of  the  snows,  only  serves  to  render  it  wider 


1 


Si 


i 


i 


IS. 


GENERAL    VIEW    OF    THE    GEOGRAPHY. 


night  13, 
countries 
erritories 
St  be,  in 
•acter  of 
range  of 

[ountains 
mte  witli 
ing  from 
th  of  the 
intries  on 
lor  heavy 

near  the 
with  salt, 
J  towards 
vegetable 
ler  Atl  an- 
ew, at  all 
in  on  the 
ly  on  the 

by  those 

stern  side 
ty  of  the 
t  side  are 
visable  to 
}  Atlantic, 
flow  from 
of  these 
yet  they 
iippi,  the 
Vlacken- 
arly  their 
and  they 
ock,  pro- 
possible, 
ing. 

)th  paral- 
j  Missis- 
commu- 
ouri  and 
scending 
iiabitable 
Vlissouri, 
y,  under 
le  princi- 
le  direc- 
and  the 
travers- 
innually 
It  wider 


i 


'< 


without  any  considerable  increase  of  its  depth,  which  is  every  where  too 
small  for  the  passage  of  the  lightest  boats.  Nature  has,  however,  pro- 
vided a  road  along  its  banks,  over  which  heavy  wagons  now  annually  roll 
between  Missouri  and  Oregon;  and,  with  a  little  assistance  from  art  in 
some  places,  this  road  may  be  rendered  one  of  the  best  in  the  world. 

The  territory  farther  north,  extending  from  the  Rocky  Mountains  to 
Hudson's  Bay  and  the  Arctic  Sea,  is  traversed  by  innumerable  rivers 
falling  into  those  parts  of  the  ocean.  Of  these,  the  principal  are  the  Red 
River,  of  the  north,  the  Assinaboin,  and  the  Saskatchawine,  emptying  into 
Lake  Winnipeg,  which  communicates  by  several  channels  with  lludsoti's 
Bay,  and  the  Missinippi  or  Churchill's  River,  falling  directly  into  that 
bay ;  while  the  Arctic  Sea  receives,  ncnrly  under  the  ()9th  parallel  of 
latitude.  Back's  or  the  Great  Fish  River,  the  Coppermine,  and  the 
Mackenzie,  the  latter  draining  a  territory  scarcely  less  extensive  than 
that  of  the  Columbia.  The  regions  crossed  by  these  rivers  are,  in  gen- 
eral, so  nearly  level,  that  it  is,  in  many  places,  difficult  to  trace  the  limits 
of  the  tracts  from  which  the  waters  flow  into  their  respective  channels  or 
basins.  They  contain  numerous  lakes,  some  very  large,  and  nearly  all 
connected  with  each  other,  and  with  the  Arctic  Sea  on  the  north,  and 
Hudson's  Bay  on  the  east;  and  the  head-waters  of  the  rivers  supplying 
these  reservoirs  are  situated  in  the  vicinity  of  the  sources  of  the  Missis- 
.sippi,  or  of  the  Missouri,  or  of  the  Columbia,  or  of  the  streams  falling 
into  Lake  Superior.  The  rivers  above  named  are  all  navigable  for  great 
distances  by  boats,  and  they  thus  afford  considerable  advantages  for  com- 
mercial intercourse ;  goods  being  now  transported  across  the  continent, 
from  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia  to  Hudson's  Bay  or  to  Montreal,  and 
vice  versa,  almost  entirely  by  water. 

Under  circumstances  of  climate,  soil,  and  conformation  of  surface,  so 
different,  it  may  be  supposed  that  considerable  differences  should  exist 
between  the  productions  of  the  great  divisions  of  America  here  men- 
tioned. It  has  been,  accordingly,  found  that  few  species  of  plants  or  of 
animals  are  common  to  them  all,  and  that  many  wliich  aboimd  in  one  are 
rare,  if  not  entirely  wanting,  in  the  others.  Some  plants,  especially  the 
pines  and  cedars,  acquire  a  greater  development  in  the  regions  near  the 
Pacific  than  in  any  other  country ;  but  a  large  portion  of  tliose  territories 
is,  from  reasons  already  shown,  entirely  and  irretrievably  barren.  \\\ 
recompense  for  this  sterility  of  the  soil,  the  rivers  of  the  Pacific  section 
abound  in  fish,  particularly  in  salmon,  which  ascend  them  to  great  dis- 
tances from  the  sea,  and  form  the  principal  support  of  the  inhabitants. 

With  respect  to  the  aborigines  of  these  countries,  the  Arctic  coasts 
of  America  are  occupied  by  a  race  called  Esquimaux,  distinguished  by 
peculiar  marks  from  all  others,  who  are  likewise  found  on  the  northern- 
most shores  of  the  Pacific,  and  particularly  in  the  islands  between  the 
two  continents,  intermingled  with  the  Tchukski,  the  aborigines  of  north- 
ernmost Asia.  The  remainder  of  the  Pacific  section,  and,  indeed,  of  the 
whole  American  continent,  except,  perhaps,  Patagonia,  appears  to  have 
been  inhabited,  before  the  entrance  of  the  Europeans,  by  one  and  the 
same  race;  the  natives  of  the  different  portions  differing  but  slightly,  con- 
sidering the  varieties  of  climate,  soil,  and  situation,  and  the  consequent 
varieties  in  modes  of  life.  That  some  admixture  with  the  races  of  South- 
eastern Asia  may  have  taken  place,  is  not  improbable,  from  the  fact  that 
Japanese  vessels  have  more  than  once  been  thrown  on  the  north-west 


10 


GENERAL    VIEW    OF    THE    GEOGRAPHY. 


I  ! 


coasts  of  America  since  the  beginning  of  the  present  century ;  but  no 
evidence  or  strong  ground  of  supposition  of  such  admixture  has  been 
discovered  in  the  appearance  of  any  part  of  the  population  of  those 
coasts. 

The  settlements  of  civilized  nations  in  the  Pacific  section  of  North 
America  are  inconsiderable  in  extent.  Those  of  the  Russians  are  scat- 
tered along  the  coasts  and  islands  north  of  the  latitude  of  54  degrees  40 
minutes;  they  are  all  under  the  direction  of  the  Russian  American 
Trading  Company,  and  are  devoted  entirely  to  the  collection  of  the 
furs  and  skins  of  the  land  and  sea  animals  abounding  in  that  quarter,  of 
which  large  quantities  are  transported  for  sale  to  Asia  and  Europe.  Those 
of  the  British  and  of  citizens  of  the  United  States  are  intermingled 
throughout  the  regions  south  and  east  of  the  Russian  territory,  to  Cali- 
fornia ;  the  British,  in  general,  occupying  the  parts  north,  and  the 
Americans  those  south,  of  the  Columbia  River,  which  enters  the  Pacific 
near  the  4(}th  degree  of  latitude.  The  people  of  both  the  last-mentioned 
nations  have  hitherto,  likewise,  been  employed  principally  in  the  fur  trade ; 
but,  that  business  having  become  less  profitable  of  late  years,  from  the 
diminution  of  the  animals,  agricultural  establishments  have  been  formed, 
especially  by  the  citizens  of  the  United  States,  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
Columbia.  The  British  are  all  under  the  control  of  the  Hudson's  Bay 
Company,  which  possesses,  in  virtue  of  a  royal  grant,  the  privilege,  in 
exclusion  of  other  British  subjects,  of  trading  in  all  the  Indian  countries 
of  North  America  belonging  to,  or  claimed  by,  that  power ;  and  they 
are  pr<>tected  and  restrained  by  British  laws,  under  an  act  of  Parliament 
extending  the  jurisdiction  of  the  Canada  courts  over  those  countries,  so 
far  as  relates  to  subjects  of  that  nation.  The  citizens  of  the  United  States, 
on  the  contrary,  are  deprived  of  all  protection,  and  are  independent  of 
all  control;  as  they  are  not  subject  to  British  laws,  and  their  own  govern- 
ment exercises  no  authority  wliatsoever  over  any  part  of  America  west  of 
th(!  Rocky  Mountains.  In  California,  south  of  the  38th  degree  of  lati- 
tude, are  many  colonies,  garrisons,  and  missionary  stations,  founded  by 
the  Spaniards  during  the  last  century,  and  now  maintained  by  the  Mexi- 
cans, who  succeeded  to  the  rights  of  Spain  in  1821.  They  are  all  situ- 
ated in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  thp  coasts,  the  interior  regions  being,  as 
yet,  almost  unknown.  It  is  worthy  of  remark,  that  California,  though 
thinly  inhabited  by  a  wretched,  indolent  population,  is  the  only  part  of 
the  Pacific  section  of  North  America  which  can  be  considered  as  regularly 
settled,  —  which  possesses  an  organized  civil  and  social  system,  and  where 
individuals  hold  a  property  in  the  soil  secured  to  them  by  law. 

Each  of  these  four  nations  claims  the  exclusive  possession  of  a  portion 
of  the  territory  on  the  Pacific  side  of  America,  north  of  the  Californian 
Gulf;  and  each  of  them  is  a  party  to  some  treaty  with  another,  for  the 
temporary  use,  or  definitive  sovereignty,  of  such  portion.  Thus  it  has 
been  agreed,  by  treaty,  in  181Q,  between  the  United  States  and  Spain, — 
renewed,  in  1828,  between  the  United  States  and  Mexico,  —  that  a  line, 
drawn  from  the  Rocky  Mountains  to  the  Pacific,  in  the  course  of  the 
42d  parallel  of  latitude,  should  separate  the  dominions  of  the  former 
power  on  the  north  from  those  of  Mexico  on  the  south.  It  was,  in  like 
manner,  agreed,  in  1824,  by  convention  between  the  United  States  and 
Russia,  that  the  former  nation  should  make  no  establishments  on  the 
coasts  north  of  the  parallel  of  54  degrees  40  minutes,  and  that  the  latter 


I 


I 


bol 
sec 
an({ 
Mf 


GENERAL    VIEW    OF    THE    GEOGRAPHY. 


n 


jortion 
[Torn  i  an 
ibr  the 

it  has 
lain, — 
la  line, 
lof  the 
jformer 
In  like 
and 

>n  the 
latter 


should  make  none  south  of  the  same  line;  but  this  convention  was  neu- 
tralized, and,  in  fact,  abrogated,  by  a  treaty  concluded  between  Russia 
and  Great  Britain  in  the  following  year,  by  which  all  the  territories  of  the 
main  land  and  islands,  north  and  west  of  a  line  drawn  from  the  latitude 
of  54  decrees  40  minutes,  north-westward,  along  the  '  -Thlands  bordering 
♦he  Pacific  coasts,  to  Mount  St.  Elias,  and  thence  due  north  to  the  Arctic 
Sea,  were  to  belong  to  Russia,  while  all  east  and  south  of  that  line  were 
to  be  the  property  of  Great  Britain. 

Thus,  on  the  western  side  of  North  America,  two  lines  of  distinct 
boundary,  or  partition,  each  traversing  the  whole  breadth  of  the  Pacific 
section,  have  been  recogniy-ed ;  the  one  between  two  powers,  Great  Britain 
and  Russia,  the  other  between  two  different  powers,  the  United  States  and 
Mexico,  —  neither  of  which  is,  however,  admitted  by  the  third  power,  claim- 
ing, also,  the  possession  of  territories  contiguous  to  it.  Of  the  vast  di- 
vision of  the  continent  and  the  adjacent  islands  between  these  two  lines, 
no  spot  has  yet  been  assigned,  by  mutual  agreement,  to  any  civilized 
nation.  The  United  States  claim  the  territories  northward  from  the  42d 
parallel,  and  Great  Britain  claims  those  extending  south  and  east  from  the 
other  line,  each  to  a  distance  undefined,  but  so  far  as  to  secure  for  itself 
the  whole,  or  nearly  the  whole,  of  the  regions  traversed  by  the  Colum;).u 
River.  The  American  government  has  more  than  once  proposed  to 
adopt  the  forty-ninth  parallel  of  latitude  as  the  dividing  line;  the  British 
have,  however,  constantly  refused  to  assent  to  that  or  any  other  arrange- 
ment which  should  deprive  them  of  the  coasts  and  territories  north  of 
the  Columbia  River ;  and  neither  nation  being  willing  to  recede  from 
its  pretensions,  all  the  countries  claimed  by  both,  west  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  remain,  by  convention  between  the  two  governments,  con- 
cluded in  1827,  free  and  open  to  the  citizens  or  subjects  of  both. 

Such  is  the  present  political  condition  of  the  Pacific  regions  of  North 
America.  This  anomalous  state  of  things  cannot,  however,  endure  much 
longer.  The  people  of  the  United  States  are  rapidly  colonizing  the  fertile 
portions  of  the  territory  on  the  lower  Columbia  ;  and  no  one  acquainted 
with  their  character  can  suppose  that  they  will  submit  to  be  deprived  of 
their  political  birthright  in  those  countries,  while  they  have  the  slightest 
prospect  of  vindicating  it. 

Having  presented  this  concise  general  view  of  the  western  section  of 
North  America,  its  divisions  will  now  be  described  in  detail,  beginning 
with  the  most  southern,  under  the  heads  of  California,  Oregon,  and  Rus- 
sian America. 


CALIFORNIA. 


I! 


The  name  California  was  first  asairrncd,  by  the  Spaniards,  in  1536,  to 
the  great  peninsula  which  extends  on  the  western  side  of  North  America, 
from  the  '.Wd  degree  of  latitude,  southwardly,  to  and  within  tiie  limits  of 
the  torrid  zone;  and  it  was  afterwards  made  to  comprehend  the  whole 
division  of  the  continent  north-west  of  Mexico,  just  as  that  of  Florida 
was  applied  to  the  opposite  portion  on  the  Atlantic  side.  At  the  present 
day,  California  is  usually  considered  as  including  the  peninsula,  and  the 
territory  extending  from  it,  on  the  Pacific,  northward,  as  far  as  the  limits 
of  Oregon,  or  the  country  of  the  Columbia  River ;  Cape  Mendocino,  in 
the  latitude  of  40  degrees  19  minutes,  being  assumed  as  the  point  of 
separation  of  the  two  coasts.  The  Mexican  government,  however,  re- 
gards the  42d  parallel  of  latitude  as  the  northern  limit  of  California, 
agreeably  to  the  treaty  concluded  between  that  republic  and  the  United 
States  of  America  in  l!^2^. 

California  is  naturally  divided  into  two  portions  —  the  peninsular,  called 
Old  or  Lower  California  —  and  the  continental,  or  New,  or  Upper  Califor- 
nia, the  line  of  separation  between  which  runs  nearly  along  the  32d 
parallel  of  latitude,  from  the  head  or  northern  extremity  of  the  Californian 
Gulf,  westward  to  the  Pacific. 

The  Gulf  of  California  will  be  first  considered.  This  Gulf,  called  by 
the  Spaniards  the  Sea  of  Cortes,  but  more  commonly  the  Vermilion  Sea, 
(Mar  Vermejo,)  is  a  great  arm  of  the  Pacific,  which  joins  that  ocean 
under  the  23d  parallel  of  latitude,  and  thence  extends  north-eastward,  be- 
tween the  American  continent  on  the  east  and  the  Californian  peninsula  on 
the  v/est,  to  its  head  or  termination,  near  the  32d  parallel,  where  it  receives 
the  waters  of  the  Colorado  and  Gila  Rivers.  Its  length  is  about  seven 
hundred  miles ;  its  breadth,  at  its  jimction  with  the  Pacific,  is  one  hundred 
miles :  farther  north,  it  is  somewhat  wider,  and,  still  farther,  its  shores 
gradually  approach  each  other,  until  they  become  the  banks  of  the  Colo- 
rado. It  contains  many  islands,  of  which  the  largest  are  Carmen,  near 
the  25th  degree  of  latitude,  Tiburon  and  Santa  Ines,  near  the  29th,  and 
some  others  at  the  northern  extremity.  The  western  or  peninsular  coasts 
of  the  gulf  are  high,  steep,  and  rocky,  offering  very  few  places  of  security 
for  vessels ;  and  not  a  single  stream  which  deserves  the  name  of  a  river 
enters  it  on  that  side.  The  eastern  or  continental  shores  are  generally 
low,  and  the  sea  in  their  vicinity  is  so  shallow  as  to  render  the  navigation 
along  them  dangerous. 

The  peninsular  coast  of  the  gulf  has  long  been  celebrated  for  the  great 
size  and  beauty  of  the  pearls  contained  in  the  oysters  which  abound  in 
the  sea  on  that  side  ;  and  the  search  for  those  precious  stones  has  always 
formed  the  principal  employment  of  people  of  civilized  nations  in  that 
quarter     The  pearls  are  procured,  with  much  danger  and  difficulty,  by 


GEOGRAPHY    OF    CALIFORNIA. 


13 


1536, to 

America, 
limits  of 
the  whole 
if  Florida 
le  present 
[J,  and  the 
the  limits 
Jocino,  in 
point  of 
tvcver,  re- 
Jalifornia, 
he  United 

liar,  called 
er  Califor- 
£r  the  32d 
palifornian 

called  by 
lilion  Sea, 
I  at  ocean 
Iward,  be- 
linsulaon 
It  receives 
>ut  seven 
hundred 
its  shores 
[the  Colo- 
lien,  near 
J9th,  and 
lar  coasts 
security 
l>f  a  river 
fenerally 
ivifffition 

Ihe  great 

lound  in 

always 

in  that 

hilty,  by 


Indians,  who  dive  for  them  to  the  depth  of  twenty  or  more  feet,  and  of 
whom  a  large  proportion  are  annually  drowned  or  devoured  by  sharks. 
A  company,  formed  at  London  in  18"J5,  sent  Lieutenant  Hardy  to  the 
Calilbrnian  coast,  with  two  vessels,  carryinij  diving-bells,  by  the  aid  of 
which  it  was  expected  that  the  pearl  fishery  might  be  conducted  more 
safely,  as  well  as  profitably,  than  by  the  ordinary  means;  but,  unfortu- 
nately, it  proved  that  the  oysters  always  lie  in  crevices  of  the  rocks,  to 
which  no  access  can  be  had  by  persons  in  the  diving-bell,  and  the  enter- 
prise was,  in  consecjuence,  abandoned.  The  value  of  the  pearls  obtained 
appears  to  be  trifling  when  compared  with  the  time  and  labor  employed  in 
the  search  for  them.  In  1825,  eight  vessels  engaged  in  the  business  col- 
lected together  five  pounds  of  pearls,  which  were  worth  about  ten  thousand 
dollars.  Occasionally,  however,  a  single  stone  is  found  of  value  sufiicient 
to  afford  compensation  for  years  of  fruitless  labor;  and  some  of  the  rich- 
est pearls  in  the  regalia  of  Spain  are  the  produce  of  the  fishery  in  the 
Californian  Gulf 

The  territory  extending  east  from  the  Californian  Gulf  to  the  summit 
of  the  great  dividing  chain  of  the  Anahuac  Mountains,  forms  two  politi- 
cal divisions  of  the  Mexican  republic,  of  which  the  northern  is  called 
Sonora,  (a  corruption  of  Senora,)  and  the  southern  Sinaloa.  These 
countries  are,  as  yet,  thinly  inhabited :  from  the  general  productive- 
ness of  their  soil,  the  salubrity  of  their  climate,  and  the  number  and  rich- 
ness of  their  mines  of  gold  and  silver,  they  seem  calculated  for  the  .support 
of  a  large  population,  for  which  the  gulf,  and  the  many  rivers  owing 
into  it  from  the  mountains  on  the  ea^l,  will  fifford  the  means  of  communi- 
c»ting  with  other  lands.  The  port  of  Guaymas,  in  Sonora,  in  latitude  of 
^  legrees  40  minutes,  is  said  to  be  one  of  the  best  on  the  Pacific  side 
merica.  Mazatlan,  in  Sonora,  at  the  entrance  of  the  Californian 
viMii,  has  been,  hitherto,  more  generally  frequented;  but  it  is  neither  so 
secure  as  Guaymas,  nor  is  the  territory  in  its  vicinity  so  productive  or 
healthy.  South-east  of  Mazatlan,  in  latitude  of  27  degrees  29  minutes, 
is  San  Bias,  the  principal  commercial  port  of  Mexico  on  the  Pacific,  one 
of  the  hottest  and  most  unhealthy  spots  on  the  globe ;  and  still  farther,  in 
the  same  direction,  are  Navidad,  Acapulco,  and  the  harbor  of  Tehuante- 
pec,  all  celebrated,  in  former  times,  as  places  of  trade,  but  now  decaying 
and  deserted. 

The  peninsula  of  California  is  about  one  hundred  and  thirty  miles  in 
breadth  where  it  joins  the  continent,  under  the  32d  parallel,  that  is  to  say, 
nearly  in  the  same  latitude  with  the  city  of  Savannah,  in  Georgia. 
Thence  it  extends  south-eastward,  varying,  but  generally  diminishing,  in 
breadth  between  the  Pacific  on  the  west  and  the  Californian  Gulf  on  the 
east,  to  its  termination  in  two  points  —  Cape  San  Lucas,  the  south- 
westernmost,  in  latitude  of  22  degrees  52  minutes,  corresponding  nenrly 
with  that  of  the  city  of  Havanna,  in  Cuba  —  and  Cape  Palmo,  tiO  miles 
east  by  north  of  the  other,  at  the  entrance  of  the  Californian  Gulf 

Continental  California  extends,  upon  the  Pacific,  from  the  32d  parallel  of 
latitude,  where  it  joins  the  peninsula,  about  seven  hundred  miles  northwest- 
ward  to  Oregon,  from  which  it  is  divided,  nearly  in  the  course  of  the  42d 
parallel, — that  is,  nearly  in  the  latitude  of  Boston, — by  a  chain  of  highlands 
called  the  Snowy  Mountains,  the  Sierra  Nevada  of  the  Spaniards.  Its 
boundaries  on  the  west  are  not,  as  yet,  determined  politically  by  the 
Mexican   government;    nor   do  geographers  agree   with   regard    to   its 


I    i 
■   i 


14 


GEOGRAPHV    OF    CALIFORNIA. 


natural  limits  in  that  direction.  By  somo,  it  is  considered  as  embracing, 
like  Chili,  only  the  territory  between  the  Pacific  and  the  summit  of  the 
great  mountain  chain,  which  borders  tlie  western  side  of  the  continent : 
others  extend  its  limits  to  the  Colorado;  while  others  in'lude  in  it,  and 
others  again  exclude  from  it,  the  entire  regions  drained  by  that  river. 
The  only  portion  occupied  by  the  Mexicans,  or  of  which  any  distinct  ac- 
counts have  been  obtained,  is  that  between  the  great  chain  of  mountains 
and  the  ocean ;  the  country  east  of  that  ridge  to  the  Colorado  appears  to 
be  an  uninhabitable  desert. 

The  Californian  peninsula  is  merely  the  southern  portion  of  the  great 
westernmost  chain  of  mountains,  prolonged  through  the  Pacific.  It 
consists  entirely  of  high,  stony  ridges,  separated  by  narrow,  sandy  val- 
leys, and  contains  no  tracts  of  level  ground  of  any  extent.  At  its 
southern  extremity,  the  earth  is  sometimes  visited  by  showers  in  the  sum- 
mer, but  never  at  any  other  period  of  the  year :  near  its  junction  with 
the  continent,  rain  is  seen  only  in  winter ;  and  in  the  intermediate  por- 
tion, many  years  in  succession  pass  by  without  the  appearance  of  a 
drop  of  water  from  the  heavens,  or  indeed  of  a  single  cloud,  while  the 
rays  of  the  sun,  thus  uninterrupted  in  their  passage,  produce  a  heat  as 
intense  as  that  in  any  other  region  of  the  world.  Under  such  circum- 
stances, as  might  be  supposed,  the  springs  of  water  are  few  and  slender, 
and  the  surface  is  almost  every  where  destitute  of  vegetation.  The 
peninsula  is,  on  the  whole,  an  irreclaimable  desert:  yet,  wherever  irri- 
gation is  practicable,  the  productiveness  of  the  soil  is  extraordinary  ;  and 
the  little  oases  formed  by  the  passage  of  a  slender  rivulet  through  a 
narrow,  sandy  defile,  may  thus  be  made  to  yield  all  the  fruits  of  tropical 
climes  in  abundance,  and  of  the  finest  quality. 

The  southern  portion  of  the  peninsula  contains  several  mines  of  gold, 
which  have  been  worked,  tiiough  not  extensively.  The  only  mine  as  yet 
discovered  in  conlinental  California  is  one  of  gold,  situnted  at  the  foot 
of  the  great  westernmost  rtinge  of  mountains,  on  the  west,  at  the  dis- 
tance of  twenty-five  miles  from  Angeles,  the  largest  town  in  the  country. 
It  is  said  to  be  of  extraordinary  richness. 

The  animals  originally  found  in  California  were  buffaloes,  —  though  in 
■  "nail  numbers,  compared  with  those  east  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  —  deer, 
ciK,  bears,  wild  hogs,  wild  sheep,  ocelotes,  heavers,  foxes,  and  many  oih^rs, 
generally  of  species  ''ifferent  from  those  in  the  Atlantic  regions  of  the 
continent.  Sea  otters  were  lery  abundant  on  the  northern  parts  of  the 
coasts,  but  they  have  disappeared.  Cattle  and  horses  were  introduced  by 
the  Spaniards  from  Mexico,  and  have  increased  in  an  extraordinary  de- 
gree, particularly  the  cattle,  with  which  the  valleys  near  the  coast  of  the 
continental  portion  are  covered.  One  of  the  scourges  of  this  country  is 
the  rhapul,  a  kind  of  grasshopper,  which  appears  in  summer,  especially 
after  a  mild  winter,  in  clouds  resembling  the  locusts  of  Southern  Asia, 
destroying  every  vegetable  substance  in  their  way. 

The  aborigines  of  California  are  placed,  by  those  who  have  had  the 
best  opportunity  of  studying  their  character  and  disposition,  with  the 
Hottentots,  tht  P.cvagonians,  and  the  Australians,  among  the  hwest  of  the 
human  race  :  those  of  the  continental  portion  being  considered  less  fero- 
cious, but  more  indolent  and  vicious,  than  the  natives  of  the  peninsula. 
The  Spaniards  made  many  attempts,  during  the  sixteenth  and  seventeenth 
centuries,  to   found   settlements   iji   the   country,   all   of  which   proved 


4 

a 

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i 

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>i 

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i 

wj 

m 


GEOCKAPHY    OF    CALIFORNIA. 


15 


bracing, 
lit  of  the 
intinent : 
n  it,  and 
lat  river, 
jtinct  ac- 
lountains 
ppears  to 

the  great 
iific.      It 
landy  val- 
At  its 
the  sum- 
tion  with 
diate  por- 
ince  of  a 
while  the 
a  heat  as 
li  circum- 
i  slender, 
on.     The 
•ever   irri- 
nary ;  and 
through  a 
)f  tropical 

Bs  of  gold, 
ine  as  yet 
the  foot 
the  dis- 
country. 

lough  in 
—  deer, 
ly  oihprs, 
ns  of  the 
rts  of  the 
duced  by 
nary  de- 
ist of  the 
auntry  is 
specially 
|rn   Asia, 

had  the 
Iwith  the 
1st  of  the 
less  fero- 

hiinsula. 

jnteenth 
proved 


abortive;  until,  at  length,  in  1G99,  the  Jesuits,  by  permission  of  the  king 
of  Spain,  undertook  to  convert  the  natives  to  Christianity,  and  to  initiate 
i  them  into  the  usages  and  arts  of  civilized  life.  With  thi^  view  they 
.^  formed  a  number  of  missions,  near  the  cast  coasts  of  the  peninsula,  and, 
I  by  untiring  assiduity,  they  had  succeeded  partly  in  their  objects  before 
I  17GS,  when  the  Jesuits  were,  in  execution  of  a  decree  issued  at  Madrid, 
%  expelled  from  the  Spanish  dominions  ;  their  establishments  were  then 
'I  confided  to  the  Dominicans,  under  whose  charge  they  have  since  re- 
,1      mained  with  little  advantage  in  any  way. 

*         The  number  of  persons  in  the  peninsula  at  present  has  been  variously 

%      estimated;  from  the  best  accounts,  it  dues  not  exceed  five  thousand,  of 

^      whom  a  small  proportion  only  are  Mexicans,  and  very  few  are  of  European 

oriffin.    The  principal  places  now  occupied  by  the  Mexicans  are  —  Loreto, 

formerly  the  principal  mission  of  the  Jesuits,  and  now  the  capital  of  Old 

California,  a  miserable  village   of  about  two  hundred  persons,  situated 

near  the  gulf,  opposite  the  Island  of  Carmen,  in  latitude  of  25  degrees  14 

minutes  —  La  Paz,  on  the  Bay  of  Pichilingue,  a  little  farther  south,  the 

port  of  communication  with  Mexico — and  Port  San  Jose,  near  Cape  San 

Lucas,  where  an  establishment  has  been  recently  formed  in  a  plain,  watered 

.,      by  a  slender  rill.     From  these  places,  small  quantities  of  tortoise  shells,  dried 

M     meat,  cheese,  and  dried  fruits,  the  latter  said  to  be  excellent,  are  sent  to 

San  Bias,  in  Mexico,  or  sold  to  trading  vessels  which  occasionally  enter 

the  gulf  during  their  tour  along   the  coasts.      There  are  several  other 

spots  on  the  gulf  offering  good  harbors  for  vessels,  though  they  present  no 

facilities  for  settlements;  among  which  the  principal  is  the  BayofMuIege, 

near  the  latitude  of  27^  degrees. 

On  the  west,  or  Pacific,  side  of  the  peninsula  no  settlement  has  ever 
been  formed  or  attempted  by  a  civilized  nation.  This  coast  offers  many 
excellent  harbors,  but  the  want  of  fresh  water  in  their  vicinity  must  ever 
prove  an  effectual  <  istacle  to  their  occupation.  The  principal  harbors 
are,  the  Bay  of  La  Magdalena,  in  latitude  of  25  degrees,  which  is  separated 
from  the  ocean  by  the  long  island  of  Santa  Margarita,  and  appears  to 
stretch  much  farther  inland  than  had  been  supposed  ;  the  Bay  of  Sebas- 
tian Vizcaino,  under  the  28th  parallel,  eart  of  the  Isle  of  Cedars;  Port 
San  Bartolome,  called  Turtle  Lay  by  the  British  and  American  traders  , 
and  Port  SanQuintin,  an  excellent  harbor,  with  fresh  water  near  it,  in  lat- 
itude of  'M)  degrees  20  minutes,  called  by  the  old  Spanish  navigators  the 
Port  of  the  Eleven  Thousand  Virgins,  which  was  rediscovered  in  1800  l)y 
Captain  O'Kean,  a  fur-trader  from  Boston.  At  the  distance  of  a  hundred 
and  twenty  miles  from  this  coast,  under  the  parallel  of  28  degrees  45 
minutes,  is  the  small,  rocky  island  of  Guadelupe,  the  existence  of  which, 
after  it  had  been  denied  by  many  navigators,  has  been  ascertained. 

Northward  from  the  peninsula,  the  great  westernmost  chain  of  moun- 
tains continues  nearly  parallel  with  the  Pacific  coast,  to  the  34th  degree 
of  latitude,  under  which  rises  Mount  San  Bernardin,  one  of  the  highest 
peaks  in  California,  about  forty  miles  from  the  ocean.  Farther  north, 
the  coast  turns  more  to  the  west,  and  the  space  between  it  and  the  sum- 
mit line  of  the  mountains  becomes  wider,  so  as  to  exceed  eighty  miles  in 
some  places;  the  intermediate  region  being  traversed  by  lines  of  hills,  or 
smaller  mountains,  connected  with  the  main  range.  The  principal  of 
these  inferior  ridges  extends  from  Mount  San  Bernardin  north-westward 
to  its  termination  on  the  south  side  of  the  entrance  of  the  great  Bay  of 


IS'   '■ 

I 


i  . 


16 


GEOGHAPIIY    OF    CALIFORNIA. 


San  Francisco,  near  the  38th  degree  of  latitude,  where  it  is  called  the 
San  Bruno  Mountains.  Between  this  range  and  the  coast  run  the 
Santa  Barbara  Mountains,  terminating  in  the  north  at  the  Cape  of 
Pines,  on  the  south-west  side  of  the  Bay  of  Monterey,  near  the  latitude 
of  S6i  degrees. 

North  of  the  San  Bruno  Mountains  is  the  Bolbones  ridge,  bordering 
the  Bay  of  San  Francisco  on  the  east;  and  still  farther  in  the  same 
direction  are  other  and  much  higher  lines  of  highlands,  stretching  from 
the  great  chain,  and  terminating  in  capes  on  the  Pacific. 

The  southernmost  of  these  regions  of  continental  California,  between 
the  Pacific  and  the  great  westernmost  chain  of  mountains,  resembles  the 
adjacent  portion  of  the  peninsula  in  climate;  being  very  hot  and  dry, 
e.xcept  during  a  short  time  in  the  winter.  Farther  north,  the  wet  season 
increases  in  length,  and  about  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco  the  rains  arc 
almost  constant  from  November  to  April,  the  earth  being  moistened  dur- 
ing the  remainder  of  the  year  by  heavy  dews  and  fogs.  Snow  and  ice  are 
sometimes  seen  in  the  winter  on  the  shores  of  this  bay,  but  never  farther 
south,  except  on  the  mountain-tops.  The  whole  of  California  is,  however, 
subject  to  long  droughts ;  thus  little  or  no  rain  fell  in  any  part  of  the 
country  during  1840  and  1841,  in  which  years  the  inhabitants  were 
reduced  to  the  greatest  distress. 

Among  the  valleys  in  this  part  of  California  are  many  streams,  some 
of  which  discharge  large  quantities  of  water  in  the  rainy  season  ;  but  no 
river  is  known  to  flow  through  the  maritime  ridge  of  mountains)  from  the 
interior  to  the  Pacific,  except  perhaps  the  Sacramento,  falling  into  the 
Bay  of  San  Francisco,  though  several  are  thus  represented  on  the  maps. 
The  valleys  thus  watered  afford  abundant  pasturage  for  cattle,  with  which 
they  are  covered  :  California,  however,  contains  but  two  tracts  of  country 
capable  of  supporting  large  numbers  of  inhabitants,  which  are,  that  west 
of  Mount  San  Bernardin,  about  the  34th  degree  of  latitude,  and  that  sur- 
rounding the  Bay  of  San  Francisco  and  the  lower  part  of  the  Sacramento ; 
and  even  in  these,  artificial  irrigation  would  be  indispensable  to  insure 
success  in  agriculture. 

The  earliest  settlements  in  continental  California  were  made  by  the 
Spaniards,  in  1769,  immediatf^ly  after  the  expulsion  of  the  Jesuits  from  the 
peninsula.  These  establ'^hmentd  were  at  first  missionary  and  military ; 
the  charge  of  converting  the  natives  being  committed  to  the  Franciscans, 
while  forts  and  garrisons  were  placed  at  various  points,  for  the  occupation 
and  defence  of  the  country.  Towns  were  subsequently  laid  out  and 
settled,  and  farms  were  cultivated,  for  the  most  part  by  natives,  under  the 
direction  of  the  friars  and  oflicers.  All  these  establishments  declined 
considerably  after  the  overthrow  of  the  Spanish  power,  in  consequence  of 
want  of  funds,  and  the  diminution  of  the  authority  of  the  priesthood;  but, 
on  the  other  hand,  the  commerce  of  the  country  has  increased,  and  many 
vessels,  principally  from  the  United  States,  resort  to  its  ports,  bringing 
manufactured  articles,  in  return  for  which  they  receive  hides,  tallow, 
and  other  raw  productions.  In  1835,  the  number  of  missions  was  twenty- 
one,  and  of  the  towns  seven,  to  which  were  attached  about  twenty-three 
thousand  persons,  mostly  of  the  pure  aboriginal  race,  and  many  of  mixed 
breed.  Since  that  time  several  missions  have  been  abandoned,  while  the 
towns  have  increased  in  number  and  population. 

The  most  southern  settlement  on  the  Pacific  side  of  California,  and  the 


I 


GEOGRAPHY    OF    CALIFORNIA. 


17 


is  called  the 

aast    run  the 

the  Cape  of 

the  latitude 

re,  bordering 

in  the  same 

etching  from 

rnia,  between 
resembles  the 
hot  and  dry, 
he  wet  season 
the  rains  arc 
loistened  dur- 
vv  and  ice  are 
never  f  irther 
a  is,  however, 
ly  part  of  the 
abitants  were 

streams,  some 

eiison ;  but  no 

tains  from  the 

illing  into  the 

i  on  the  maps. 

le,  with  which 

icts  of  country 

are,  that  west 

and  that  sur- 

Sacramento ; 

ble  to  insure 

made  by  the 
[suits  from  the 
jand  military  ; 
Franciscans, 
lie  occupation 
llaid  out    and 
res,  under  the 
Ints   declined 
nisequence  of 
psthood;  but, 
td,  and  many 
Irts,  bringing 
pides,  tallow, 
was  twenty- 
I  twenty-three 
,nv  of  mixed 
while  the 


;i 


rnia,  and  the 


first  established  by  the  Spaniards,  is  San  Diego,  a  small  town  of  tliree  hun- 
dred iuliabitants,  situated  about  a  mile  from  the  north  shore  of  a  bay  which 
counnunicates  with  the  ocean,  in  the  latitude  of  ;W  degrees  41  niiuutcs. 
The  bay  runs  about  ten  miles  eastward  into  the  land,  being  separated  from 
tlie  ocean,  in  its  whole  length,  by  a  ridge  of  sand,  and  affords  entrance  to 
vessels  of  any  size,  which  may  anchor  safe  from  all  winds  within  a  mile 
of  the  northern  shore.  The  passage  leading  into  it  is  defended  by  for- 
tifications which,  if  properly  armed  and  manned,  might  render  the  harbor 
completely  secure  from  all  attacks  by  sea.  The  mission  stands  about 
seven  miles  from  the  town,  in  a  valley,  through  which  a  torrent  rushes  in 
the  rainy  season.  About  sixty  miles  farther  north-west  is  San  Juan,  a  small 
place  on  an  unsafe  and  inconvenient  harbor,  in  latitude  of  33  degrees  27 
minutes;  and  somewhat  farther  in  the  same  direction  is  San  Pedro,  on  a 
bay  open  to  the  south-west  winds,  but  sheltered  from  the  north-west.  The 
country  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  these  places  is  sandy  and  barren, 
yielding  little  besides  grass  for  cattle;  in  the  interior,  however,  on  the 
north-cast,  is  the  wide  tract  already  mentioned,  extending  to  Mount  San 
Bernardin,  which  is  said  to  be  of  great  fertility  wherever  it  is  properly 
irrigated,  producing  wheat,  vines,  olives,  and  fruits  of  various  kinds.  In 
this  tract,  at  the  distance  of  thirty  miles  north  from  San  Pedro,  stands 
Pueblo  de  los  Anffcles,  the  largest  town  in  California,  containinir  a  thou- 
sand  inhabitants;  and  near  it  the  mission  of  San  Gabriel,  the  vineyards 
of  which  formerly  yielded  a  large  supply  of  good  wine. 

From  Port  San  Pedro  the  Californian  coast  runs  westward,  more  than  a 
hundred  miles,  to  (Jape  Conception,  a  point  situated  in  latitude  of  34  de- 
grees 22  minutes,  as  much  dreaded  by  navigators,  on  account  of  the 
violence  and  frequency  of  the  storms  in  its  vicinity,  as  Cape  Ilatteras, 
near  the  same  parallel  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  continent.  Opposite  this 
part  of  the  coast  are  the  Islands  of  Santa  Barbara,  eight  in  number,  of 
which  four,  called  Santa  Cruz,  Santa  Rosa,  Santa  Catalina,  and  San 
Clemente,  contain  from  twenty  to  fifty  square  miles  of  surface  each;  the 
others  being  mere  rocks.  Between  the  Island  of  Santa  Cm/  and  tiie 
main  land  on  the  north  is  the  channel  of  Santa  Barbara,  oi  tie  north 
side  of  which,  the  town,  fort,  and  mission  of  Santa  Barbara  arc  iiiated, 
in  a  sandy  plain,  stretching  from  the  coast  to  the  Santa  Barbara  rangf  of 
mountains.  The  harbor  is  an  open  roadstead,  sheltered  from  the  north 
and  west  winds,  which  there  prevail  from  November  to  March,  but 
atfording  no  protection  against  the  south-westerly  storms,  which  are  so  vio- 
lent and  frequent  during  the  remainder  of  the  year. 

At  the  distance  of  a  hundred  miles  north  of  Cape  Conception,  the  Santa 
Barbara  Mountains  end,  as  already  said,  in  a  point  called  the  Cape  of 
Pines,  (Punta  de  Pinos,)  in  latitude  of  30  degrees  37  minutes;  between 
which  and  another  point,  twenty-four  miles  farther  north,  called  Cape 
New  Year,  (Punta  de  Nuevo  Ano,)  is  included  the  extensive  Bay  of  Mon- 
uiey.  This  bay  lies  in  an  indentation  of  the  coast,  almost  semi-circular; 
its  southernmost  part  is,  however,  separated  from  the  ocean  by  tiie  point 
of  land  ending  at  the  Cape  of  Pines,  and  thus  forms  a  cove,  near  the 
Bouthernmost  part  of  which  stands  the  town  of  Monterey,  or  San  Carlos 
de  Monterey,  the  seat  of  government  of  California.  The  town  is  a 
wretched  collection  of  mud-built  houses,  containing  about  two  hundred 
inhabitants;  the  castle,  as  it  is  termed,  and  the  fort  on  the  Cape  of  Pines, 
are  merely  mud  walla,  behind  which  are  a  few  old  guns,  all  ineffective. 
3 


18 


GEOGRAPHY    OF    CALIFORNIA. 


1;  1 1 


! ; 


f 


The  mission,  situated  three  miles  south  of  the  town,  in  a  valley,  through 
wliich  runs  the  torrent  of  San  Curinelo,  embraces  extensive  buildings, 
but  is  in  a  ruinous  state,  and  nearly  deserted. 

The  surrounding  country  possesses  a  good  soil  and  a  delightful  cli- 
mate, and  might  be  rendered  very  productive  by  irrigation,  for  which  two 
small  rivers,  flowing  from  the  mountains,  offer  abundant  supplies  of  water 
at  all  times;  it,  however,  remains  uncultivated,  and  scarcely  any  article  of 
food  is  obtained  from  it,  except  the  meat  of  the  cattle  covering  the  valleys. 
From  the  eastern  shore  of  the  bay,  a  sandy  plain  extends  eastward  to  the 
foot  of  the  San  Bruno  xMountains,  traversed  by  a  river  called  the  Buena- 
ventura, which  is  erroneously  represented,  on  some  maps,  as  flowing 
through  the  great  ridge  from  the  interior  countries.  North  of  the  bay,  at 
a  little  distance  from  Cape  New  Year,  is  the  mission  of  Santa  Cruz,  to 
wliich  vessels  commonly  resort  for  water  and  provisions;  and  farther  in 
the  interior,  beyond  the  San  Bruno  range,  is  the  town  of  Branciforte,  one 
of  the  largest  in  California. 

The  next  remarkable  headland  on  the  coast  north  of  the  Bay  of  Mon- 
terey is  that  called  Punta  de  los  Reyes,  or  the  Cape  of  Kings,  composed  of 
high  white  cliffs,  projecting  into  the  Pacific,  under  the  38th  degree  of  lat- 
itude ;  when  seen  from  the  north  or  the  south,  it  presents  the  appearance 
of  an  island,  being  connected  with  tiie  main  land  on  the  east  by  low 
ground.  A  few  miles  south  of  this  point  are  two  clusters  of  rocky  islets, 
called  Farellones,  immediately  east  of  which. 

The  Bay  of  San  Francisco  joins  the  Pacific  by  a  passage  or  channel 
two  miles  wide,  and  three  in  length,  under  the  parallel  of  37  degrees 
5.)  minutes,  nearly  in  the  same  latitude  with  the  entrance  of  Chesapeake 
Bay,  and  the  Straits  of  Gibraltar.  From  this  passage  the  bay  extends 
northward  and  southward,  surrounded  by  ranges  of  high  hills,  and  con- 
taining some  of  the  most  convenient,  beautiful,  and  secure  harbors,  on 
the  Pacific,  and,  indeed,  in  the  world. 

The  southern  branch  of  the  bay  extends  south-eastward  about  thirty  miles, 
lerminiting  in  thit  direction  in  a  number  of  small  arms,  receiving  streams 
fiom  the  hills.  Its  average  breadth  is  about  twelve  miles  ;  and  it  may  be 
considered  as  occupying  the  bottom,  or  northern  extremity  of  a  long 
V  illey,  included  between  the  San  Bruno  Mountains  on  the  west  and  the 
Bol bones  ridge  on  the  east.  Farther  up  this  valley,  in  the  south,  are 
the  large  Lakes  of  Tule,  which  communicate  with  each  other  and  with 
the  bay  during  the  rainy  season,  and  are  said  to  be  surrounded  by  a 
delightful  country,  containing  a  numerous  population  of  natives. 

The  northern  branch  of  the  bay  becomes  contracted,  near  the  entrance, 
into  a  strait,  beyond  which  is  a  basin,  ten  miles  in  diameter,  called  the 
Bay  of  San  Pablo.  A  second  passage,  r  died  tlic  Strait  of  Carquines, 
connects  this  basin  with  another,  containing  maiiv  islands,  into  which 
empty  the  Sacramento,  and  one  or  two  smaller  streams.  The  Sacramento 
rises  among  the  mountains  of  the  great  westernmost  chain,  near  the  41st 
degree  of  latitude,  and  is  said  to  receive  a  branch  flowinji  through  those 
mountains  from  the  east.  Thence  it  flows,  in  a  very  tortuous  course,  about 
three  hundred  miles,  southward,  to  its  entrance  in  the  Bay  of  San  Fran- 
cisco, being  navigable  by  small  vessels  to  the  distance  of  more  than  one 
hundred  miles  from  the  bay.  The  lower  part  of  the  country  traversed  by 
It  is  an  alluvial  plain,  parts  of  which  are  prairies,  while  others  are  cov- 
ered with  forests  of  noble  trees,  principady  oaks,  and  the  whole  appears  to 


ajuwiwiuag 


r'*!j.«wgf^'^yw 


OEOORAPHY    OF    CALIFORNIA. 


19 


ley,  through 
e  buildinrrs, 

3lightful  cli- 

)r  which  two 

lies  of  water 

ly  article  of 

the  valleys, 

tward  to  the 

the  Buena- 

as   flowing 

f  the  bay,  at 

ita  Cniz,  to 

d  farther  in 

iciforte,  one 

Say  of  Mon- 
;omposed  of 
egree  of  lat- 
appearance 
east  by  low 
rocky  islets, 

or  channel 
'  37  degrees 
Chesapeake 
bay  extends 
s,  and  con- 

larbors,  on 

lirty  miles, 

iig  streams 

it  may  be 

of  a  long 

st  and  the 
south,  are 

r  and  with 
^ided  by  a 

'es. 
entrance, 

Icalled  the 
arquines, 

ito  which 

tcrainento 
the  4Ist 
igh  those 
[se,  about 
[an  Fran- 
Ithan  one 
rersed  by 
lire  cov- 
hpears  to 


be  well  adapted  for  the  support  of  a  large  population.  The  other  rivers 
falling  into  this  basin  are  the  San  Joaquin  from  the  south,  and  the  Jesus 
Maria  from  the  north,  both  inconsiderable  streams. 

In  the  country  around  this  bay,  settlements  and  cultivation  have  ad- 
vanced more  than  in  any  other  part  of  California.  Near  its  southern  ex- 
tremity are  the  town  of  San  Jose  and  tlie  mission  of  Santa  Clara,  in  a 
delightful  region,  producing  grains  and  fruits  of  various  kinds  in  pro- 
fusion, and  affording  pasture  to  numerous  herds  of  cattle.  On  the 
northern  branch  are  the  missions  of  San  Raefael,  and  San  Francisco 
Solano;  and  many  small  establishments  for  farming  or  grazing  have  been 
formed  at  other  points.  The  town,  mission,  and  fort  of  San  Francisco, 
are  all  situated  near  the  south  side  of  the  passage  connecting  the  bay 
with  the  Pacific,  on  a  plain  at  the  termination  of  the  San  Bruno  Moun- 
tains. The  principal  anchorage  for  vessels  is  a  cove  a  few  miles  south 
of  the  entrance-passage,  between  the  western  shore  of  the  bay  and  the 
Island  of  Yerba  Buena,  where  a  settlement  has  been  commenced  by  the 
English  and  Americans,  who  conduct  nearly  all  the  trade  of  that  part 
of  California. 

Near  Cape  de  los  Reyes,  on  the  north,  is  the  entrance  of  the  Bay  of 
Bodega,  which  thence  extends  northward  and  southward,  a  few  miles  in 
each  direction.  On  the  shore  of  the  northern  branch,  the  Russians,  in 
181'2,  formed  an  establisl.  nent,  chiefly  with  the  view  of  supplying  their 
settlements  farther  north  with  grain  and  meat;  and  some  years  after- 
wards, another,  called  Ross,  was  made  by  the  same  nation,  on  the  coast 
of  the  Pacific,  thirty  miles  north  of  Bodega,  in  latitude  of  3.S  degrees  33 
minutes,  near  the  mouth  of  a  small  stream,  named  by  them  the  Slavinka 
Ross.  In  1838,  each  place  contained  a  stockaded  fort,  enclosing  maga- 
zines and  dwellings  for  the  officers,  and  surrounded  by  other  buildings, 
among  which  were  mills,  shops  for  smiths  and  carpenters,  and  stables  for 
cattle  ;  and  in  the  neighborhood  of  Bodega,  farms  were  worked,  from 
which  several  thousand  bushels  of  wheat,  besides  pease,  and  other 
vegetables,  butter,  and  cheese,  were  annually  sent  to  the  trading  posts 
in  the  north.  These  establishments  proved  constant  sources  of  annoy- 
ance to  the  Spaniards,  and  to  their  Mexican  successors,  who  did  not, 
however,  venture  to  attempt  to  remove  them  by  force;  in  1841,  they 
were  abandoned  by  the  Russians,  who  transferred  all  their  interests  in 
that  quarter  to  a  company  or  party  composed  of  citizens  of  the  United 
States,  and  others,  eipially  determined  to  resist  the  authority  of  Mexico. 

Cape  Mendocino,  which  appears  to  be  the  n.atural  point  of  junction  of 
the  coasts  of  California  and  Oregon,  is  the  most  elevjited  land  near  the 
Pacific  in  that  quarter.  It  consists  of  two  high  promontories,  situated 
about  ten  miles  apart,  of  which  the  southern  and  the  most  elevated  is 
situated  under  the  parallel  of  40  degrees  19  minutes,  nearly  in  the  same 
latitude  with  Sandy  Hook,  at  the  entrance  of  the  bay  of  New  York ; 
and  is  believed  to  be  the  western  termination  of  the  great  chain  of  the 
Snowy  Mountains,  which  forms  the  southern  barrier  of  the  regions 
drained  by  the  Columbia.  This  cape  was  formerly  much  dreaded  by 
the  Spanish  navigators,  on  account  of  the  storms  usually  prevailing  in 
its  vicinity  ;  but,  those  fears  having  passed  away,  the  cape  has  lost  much 
of  the  respect  with  which  it  was  regarded  by  mariners. 

The  interior  of  California,  east  of  the  mountains  which  border  the 
coast,  is   imperfectly   known.     According  to  the  vague  reports  of  the 


20 


GEOGRAPHY    OF    CALIFORNIA. 


''^!li 


Catholic  missionaries  and  American  traders,  who  have  traversed  it  in 
various  directions,  the  northern  portion  is  a  wilderness  of  lofty  mountains, 
apparently  forming  a  continuous  chain,  from  the  range  which  borders  the 
I'acific  coast  to  the  Rocky  Mountains;  and  the  southern  division  is  a 
desert  of  sandy  plains,  and  rocky  hills,  and  lakes  and  marshes,  having  no 
outlet  to  the  sea.  The  heat  of  the  sun  in  the  plains  is  described,  by  all 
who  have  experienced  it,  as  most  intense ;  and  from  their  accounts  it 
seems  to  be  certain  that  this  region,  with  the  exception,  perhaps,  of  the 
portion  immediately  adjacent  to  the  Colorado  River,  must  ever  remain 
uninhabited. 

Tiie  Colorado  seems  to  be  the  only  outlet  of  the  waters  of  these  terri- 
tories. It  is  formed  near  the  41st  degree  of  latitude,  by  the  junction  of 
several  streams,  rising  among  the  Rocky  Mountains,  of  which  the  prin- 
cipal are  the  Sids-kadee,  or  Green  River,  and  the  Sandy  River  :  thence 
flowing  south-westward,  it  passes  through  a  range  of  mountains  where  its 
course  is  broken  by  numerous  ledges  of  rocks,  producing  falls  and  rapids  ; 
after  which' it  receives  the  Nabaho,  the  Jaquesila,  the  Gila,  and  other  large 
streams  from  the  east,  and  enters  the  Gulf  of  California,  under  the  parallel 
of  ;J2  degrees.  The  country  in  the  vicinity  of  this  river,  for  some  distance 
from  its  mouth,  is  flat,  and  is  overflowed  during  the  rainy  season,  when 
the  quantity  of  water  discharged  is  very  great ;  and  high  embankments 
are  thus  made  by  the  deposit  of  the  mud  on  each  side,  similar  to  those  on 
the  Lower  Mississippi.  IIow  far  the  Colorado  may  be  ascended  by  vessels 
from  the  gulf,  is  not  known :  from  some  accounts,  it  seems  to  be  navigable 
for  three  or  f)ur  hundred  miles;  while,  according  to  others,  on  which 
more  reliance  may  be  placed,  obstacles  to  the  passage  of  vessels  occur 
much  nearer  to  the  sea. 

West  of  the  Colorado,  between  the  40th  and  the  42d  degrees  of  lati- 
tude, is  a  great  collection  of  salt  water,  called  the  Utah  Lake,  probiibly 
the  same  which  appears  on  the  old  Spanish  maps,  under  the  names  of 
Lake  Timpanogos  and  Lake  Tcgayo.  It  is  fed  by  several  streams,  the 
principal  of  which  is  the  Bear  River,  entering  on  the  north-east,  after  a 
long  and  tortuous  course  through  the  mountains.  Near  the  northern- 
most  part  of  this  river  is  an  extensive  plain  of  white  calcareous  earth,  on 
the  borders  of  which  are  several  springs  of  water,  called  the  Soda  or 
Beer  Springs,  highly  charged  with  carbonic  acid  gas,  and  one,  the  temper- 
ature of  which  is  but  little  below  the  boiling  point. 

Around  the  Utah  Lake  are  other  collections  of  water,  some  salt,  and 
having  no  outlet ;  others  fresh,  and  communicating  either  with  the  great 
lake,  or  with  the  Colorado.  The  principal  of  these  is  Ashley's  Lake, 
situated  about  a  hundred  miles  south  of  the  Utah  Lake,  on  the  banks  of 
which  a  fur-trading  establishment,  called  Fort  Ashley,  was  founded  by  the 
Americans,  in  1827;  but  it  has  since  been  abandoned. 

Having  thus  presented  the  most  remarkable  features  of  California, 
those  of  Oregon,  or  the  country  of  the  Columbia  next  adjoining  on  the 
north,  will  be  described. 


M 


tht 


n 


sed  it  in 

ountains, 
rders  the 
jion  is  a 
laving  no 
;d,  by  ail 
counts  it 
)s,  of  the 
T  remain 

lese  terri- 
nction  of 
tlie  prin- 
r :  thence 
where  its 
id  rapids ; 
ither  large 
le  parallel 
e  distance 
son,  when 
yankinents 
3  those  on 
by  vessels 
navigable 
on  which 
sels  occur 

;es  of  lati- 
probably 
names  of 
earns,  the 
st,  after  a 
northern- 
earth,  on 
Soda  or 
e  temper- 
salt,  and 
Ithe  great 
's  Lake, 
Ibnnks  of 
pd  by  the 

ilifornia, 
on  the 


1 
I 


OREGON 


Oregon  is  the  name  usually  applied  to  the  part  of  the  western  section 
of  America,  which  is  traversed  and  principally  drained  by  the  Columbia 
—  from  the  supposition,  no  doubt  erroneous,  that  this  river  was  called 
Oregon  by  the  aborigines  in  its  vicinity. 

The  political  boundaries  of  Oregon  have  not  as  yet  been  fixed  by 
agreement  between  the  parties  claiming  possession  of  it.  The  govern- 
ment of  the  United  States  considers  them  as  embracing  the  whole  territory 
west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  from  the  latitude  of  42  degrees  to  that  of 
54  degrees  40  minutes ;  the  British  have,  however,  refused  to  acknowl- 
edge the  right  of  the  Americans  to  any  portion  north  of  the  Columbia 
River.  Leaving  this  political  question  to  be  determined  hereafter,  a  view 
will  first  be  presented  of 

THE  COUNTRY  OF  TriE  COLUMBIA. 

This  country  extends  on  the  Pacific  from  the  vicinity  of  Cape  Mendo- 
cino, five  hundred  miles,  to  Cape  Flattery,  fit  the  entrance  of  the  Strait  of 
Fuca;  from  the  eastern  extremity  of  which  strait,  distant  one  hundred 
miles  from  the  ocean,  a  range  of  mountains  stretches  north-eastward, 
about  four  hundred  miles,  to  the  Rocky  Mountains,  near  the  54th  degree 
of  latitude,  separating  the  waters  of  the  Columbia  from  those  of  Frazer's 
River.  The  Rocky  Mountains  form  the  eastern  boundary  of  the  Colum- 
bia regions,  for  about  twelve  hundred  miles,  from  the  54th  to  the  4'2d 
parallels  ;  and  those  regions  are  separated  from  California,  on  the  south, 
by  the  Snowy  Mountains,  which  appear  to  extend  continuously  from 
the  Rocky  Mountains,  nearly  in  the  course  of  the  41st  parallel,  about 
seven  hundred  miles  westward,  to  the  vicinity  of  the  Pacific.  It  is  not  easy 
to  define  the.se  boundaries  more  exactly,  as  the  directions  of  the  mountain 
chains  are  not  accurately  ascertained.  The  territory  included  within  these 
limits,  and  drained  almost  entirely  by  the  Columbia,  is  not  less  than  four 
hundred  thousand  square  miles  in  superficial  extent;  which  is  more  than 
double  that  of  France,  and  nearly  half  that  of  all  the  states  of  the  Federal 
Union.  Its  southernmost  points  are  in  the  same  latitudes  with  Boston 
and  with  Florence;  while  its  northernmost  correspond  with  the  north- 
ern extremities  of  Newfoundland,  and  with  the  southern  shores  of  the 
Baltic  Sea. 

The  Pacific  coast  of  this  territory  extends  in  a  line  nearly  due  north 
from  Cape  Mendocino  to  Cape  Flattery;  in  which  whole  distance  there  is 
but  one  harbor,  or  place  of  refuge  for  ships,  namely,  the  mouth  of  the 
Columbia  River,  near  the  4(5th  degree  of  latitude,  and  that  harbor  is  very 
frequently  inaccessible. 

The  shores  south  of  the  Columbia  are  most  perilous  to  navigators  at  all 
times;  as  they  are  every  where  steep  and  rocky,  and  bordered  by  shoals 


22 


GEOGRAPHY    OF    OREGON. 


i 


.11 


i 


,!ni 


and  reefs,  on  which  the  waves  of  the  Pacific  are  driven  with  fury  by  the 
prevailing  north-west  winds.  Vessels  not  drawing  more  than  eight  feet 
may,  however,  enter  the  Umqua,  a  small  stream  falling  into  the  Pacific, 
in  the  latitude  of  42  degrees  51  minutes,  immediately  north  of  a  remark- 
able promontory  called  Cape  Orford,  probably  the  Cape  Blanco  of  the  old 
Spanish  navigators.  Small  vessels  may  also  find  anchorage  in  a  cove  or 
recess  of  the  coast,  named  by  the  Spaniards  Port  Trinidad,  under  the 
parallel  of  41  degrees  3  minutes,  about  forty  miles  north  of  Cape  Mendo- 
cino, and  in  some  other  spots;  but  no  place  on  this  coast  can  be  said  to 
offer  protection  to  vessels  against  winds  or  waves. 

North  of  the  Columbia,  the  coast  is  less  beset  by  dangers;  and  it  offers, 
immediately  under  the  47th  parallel,  one  good  port,  for  small  vessels, 
which  was  discovered  in  May,  1792,  by  Captain  Gray,  of  Boston,  and 
named  by  him  Bulfinch's  Harbor,  though  it  is  more  commonly  called 
Gray's  Harbor,  and  is  frequently  represented  on  English  maps  as  Whid- 
bey's  Bay.  The  only  other  spot  worthy  of  particular  notice  on  this  part 
of  the  coast  is  Destruction  Island,  near  the  continent,  in  latitude  of  47J 
degrees,  so  called  by  the  captain  of  an  Austrian  trading  ship  in  1787, 
in  consequence  of  the  murder  of  some  of  his  men  by  the  natives  of 
the  adjacent  country. 

The  Strait  of  Fuca  is  an  arm  of  the  sea  separating  a  great  island  from 
the  continent  on  the  south  and  east,  to  which  much  interest  was  for  some 
time  attached,  from  the  supposition  that  it  might  be  a  channel  connecting 
the  Atlantic  with  the  Pacific  north  of  America.  It  extends  from  the 
ocean  eastward  about  one  hundred  miles,  varying  in  breadth  from  ten  to 
thirty  miles,  between  the  48th  and  the  49th  parallels  of  latitude;  thence 
it  turns  to  the  north-west,  in  which  direction  it  runs,  first  expanding  into 
a  long,  wide  bay,  and  then  contracting  into  narrow  and  intricate  passages 
among  islands,  three  hundred  miles  farther,  to  its  reunion  with  the  Pacific, 
under  the  51st  parallel.  From  its  south-eastern  extremity,  a  great  gulf, 
called  Admiralty  Inlet,  stretches  southward  into  the  continent  more  than 
one  hundred  miles,  dividing  into  many  branches,  of  which  the  principal 
jire  Hood's  Canal,  on  the  west,  and  Puget's  Sound,  the  southernmost, 
extending  nearly  to  the  47th  parallel.  This  inlet  possesses  many  excel- 
lent harbors;  and  the  country  adjacent,  being  delightful  and  productive, 
will,  there  is  every  reason  to  believe,  in  time  become  valuable,  agricul- 
turally, as  well  as  commercially.  There  are  many  other  harbors  on  the 
Strait  of  Fuca,  of  which  the  principal  are  Port  Discovery,  near  the 
entrance  of  Admiralty  Inlet,  said  by  Vancouver  to  be  one  of  the  best  in 
the  Pacific,  and  Poverty  Cove,  called  Port  Nufiez  Gaona  by  the  Span- 
iards, situated  a  few  miles  east  of  Cape  Flattery.  That  cape,  so  named 
by  Cook,  is  a  conspicuous  promontory  in  the  latitude  of  48  degrees  27 
minutes,  near  which  is  a  large  rock,  called  Tatooche's  Island,  united  to  the 
promontory  by  a  rocky  ledge,  at  times  partially  covered  by  water.  The 
shore  between  the  cape  and  Admiralty  Inlet  is  composed  of  sandy  cliffs 
overhanging  a  beach  of  sand  and  stones ;  from  it  the  land  gradually  rises 
to  a  chain  of  mountains,  stretching  southwardly  along  the  Pacific  to  the 
vicinity  of  the  Columbia,  the  highest  point  of  which  received,  in  1783,  the 
name  of  Mount  Olympus. 

The  interior  of  this  part  of  America  is,  as  already  said,  traversed  by 
many  great  ranges  of  mountains,  running  generally  almost  parallel  with 
each  other,  and  with  the  coast :  before  describing  them,  however,  it  will 


^i? 


I  ' 


I 


i^=«« 


iiw**" 


GEOGRAPHY  OF  OREGON. 


28 


ry  by  tho 
sight  feet 
e  Pacific, 
I  remark- 
Df  the  old 
a  cove  or 
inder  the 
e  Mendo- 
e  said  to 

I  it  offers, 
1  vessels, 
ston,  and 
ily  called 
as  Whid- 
1  this  part 
de  of  47J 
in  1787, 
latives  of 

iland  from 
s  for  some 
lonnecting 
from  the 
•om  ten  to 
e;  thence 
nding  into 
3  passages 
le  Pacific, 
Teat  gulf, 
riore  than 
principal 
|hernmost, 
ny  excel- 
oductive, 
,  agricul- 
rs  on  the 
near  the 
le  best  in 
he  Span- 
io  named 
grees  27 
;ed  to  the 
r.    The 
iidy  cliffs 
[ally  rises 
c  to  the 
783, the 

;rsed  by 
[llel  with 
|r,  it  will 


* 


% 


be  convenient  to  present  a  general  view  of  the  Columbia  River  and  its 
branches. 

The  Columbia  enters  the  Pacific  Ocean  between  two  points  of  land, 
seven  milca  apart  —  Cape  Disappointment  on  the  north,  and  Cape  Adams 
on  the  south,  of  which  the  former  is  in  ihe  latitude  of  40  degrees  19 
minutes,  (corresponding  nearly  with  Quebec,  in  Canada,  and  Geneva,  in 
Switzerland,)  and  in  longitude  of  47  degrees  west  from  Washington,  or 
124  degrees  west  from  Greenwich.  The  main  river  is  formed,  at  the 
distance  of  two  hundred  and  fifty  miles  from  its  mouth,  by  the  union  of 
two  large  streams,  one  from  the  north,  which  is  usually  considered  as  the 
principal  branch,  and  the  other,  called  the  Sahnptiu,  or  Snake,  or  Lewi^i's 
River,  from  the  south-east.  "J'hese  two  great  confluents  receive,  in  their 
course,  many  other  streams,  and  they  thus  collect  together  all  the  waters 
flowing  from  the  western  sides  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  between  the  4"^d 
and  the  54th  parallels  of  latitude. 

The  northern  branch  of  the  Columbia  rises  in  the  Rocky  Mountains, 
near  the  53d  degree  of  latitude.  One  of  its  head-waters,  the  Canoe 
River,  runs  from  a  small  lake,  situated  in  a  remarkable  cleft  of  the  great 
chain,  called  the  Punch  Bowl,  at  the  distance  of  only  a  few  feet  from 
another  lake,  whence  flows  the  westernmost  stream  of  the  Athabasca 
River,  a  tributary  to  the  Mackenzie,  emptying  into  the  Arctic  Sea.  This 
cleft  appears  to  be  the  only  practicable  pass  in  the  mountains  north  of  the 
49th  degree  of  latitude,  and  through  it  is  conducted  all  the  trade  of 
British  subjects  between  the  territories  on  either  side  of  the  ridge.  It  is 
described,  by  those  who  have  visited  it,  as  presenting  'scenes  of  the  most 
terrific  grandeur,  being  overhung  by  the  highest  peaks  in  the  dividing 
range,  of  which  one,  called  Mount  Brown,  is  not  less  than  sixteen  thousand 
feet,  and  another,  Mount  Hooker,  exceeds  fifteen  thousand  feet,  above  the 
ocean  level. 

At  a  place  called  Boat  Encampment,  near  the  52d  degree  of  latitude. 
Canoe  River  joins  two  other  streams,  the  one  from  the  north,  the  other, 
the  largest  of  the  three,  running  along  the  base  of  the  Rocky  Mountains, 
from  the  south.  The  river  thus  formed,  considered  as  the  main  Colum- 
bia, takes  its  course  nearly  due  south,  through  defiles,  between  lofty 
mountains,  being  generally  a  third  of  a  mile  in  width,  but,  in  some 
places,  spreading  out  into  broad  lakes,  for  about  throe  hundred  miles,  to  the 
latitude  of  48J  degrees,  where  it  receives  the  Flatbow  or  M'Gillivray's 
River,  a  large  branch,  flowing,  also,  from  the  Rocky  Mountains  on  the 
east.  A  little  farther  south,  the  northern  branch  unites  with  the  Clarke 
or  Flathead  River  —  scarcely  inferior,  in  the  quantity  of  water  supplied,  to 
the  other.  The  sources  of  the  Clarke  are  situated  in  the  dividintr  rancre, 
near  those  of  the  Missouri  and  the  Yellowstone,  whence  it  runs  north- 
ward, along  the  base  of  the  mountains,  and  then  westward,  forming,  under 
the  48th  parallel,  an  extensive  sheet  of  water,  called  the  KullerspelmLake, 
surrounded  by  rich  tracts  of  land,  and  lofty  mountains,  covered  with  noble 
trees;  from  this  lake  the  river  issues,  a  large  and  rapid  stream,  and,  after 
running  about  seventy  miles  westward,  it  falls  into  the  north  branch  of 
the  Columbia,  over  a  ledge  of  rocks.  From  the  point  of  union  of  these 
two  rivers,  the  Columbia  turns  towards  the  west,  and  rushes  through  a 
ridge  of  mountains,  where  it  forms  a  cataract  called  the  Chaudiere  or 
Kettle  Falls.  Continuing  in  the  same  direction  eighty  miles,  between  the 
48th  and  the  49th  parallels,  it  receives,  in  succession,  the  Spokan  from 


!  I 


24 


GEOGRAI'HY    OF    OREGON. 


(i 

■r 


lill 


the  south,  and  the  Okinagan  from  the  north,  and,  from  the  mouth  of  the 
latter,  it  pursues  a  soulluvard  course  fur  one  hundred  and  sixty  miles,  to 
its  junction  witii  the  great  southern  branch,  near  the  47th  degree  of 
latitude. 

Of  the  Sahaptin,  or  Lewis,  or  Snake  River,  the  great  southern  branch 
of  the  Columbia,  the  farthermost  sources  me  situated  in  the  deep  valleys 
or  holes  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  near  the  42d  degree  of  latitude,  within 
short  distances  of  those  of  the  Yellowstone,  the  Platte,  and  the  Colorado. 
The  most  eastern  of  these  head-waters,  considered  as  the  main  river, 
issues  from  Pierre's  Hole,  between  tiie  Rocky  Mountains  and  a  parallel 
range  called  the  Tetons,  from  three  remarkable  peaks,  resembling  teats, 
which  rise  to  a  great  height  above  the  others.  Running  westward,  this 
stream  unites  successively  with  Henry's  Fork  from  the  north,  and  the 
Portneuf  from  the  south.  Some  distance  below  its  junction  with  the 
latter,  the  Lewis  enters  the  defile  between  the  Blue  Mountains  on  the 
west,  and  another  rocky  chain,  called  the  Salmon  River  Mountains,  on  the 
east,  and  takes  its  course  north-westward,  for  about  six  hundred  miles,  to 
its  union  with  the  northern  branch,  receiving  many  large  streams  from 
each  side.  The  principal  of  these  influent  streams  are  the  Malade  or 
Sickly  River,  the  Boise  or  Reed's  River,  the  Salmon  River,  and  the 
Kooskooskee,  from  the  east,  and  the  Malheur  and  Powder  River,  from  the 
Blue  Mountains,  on  the  west. 

Of  these  two  great  brahclies  of  the  Columbia,  and  the  streams  which 
fall  into  them,  scarcely  any  portion  is  navigable  by  the  smallest  vessels  for 
more  than  thirty  or  forty  miles  continuously.  The  northern  branch  is 
much  used  by  the  British  traders  for  the  conveyance  of  their  furs  and 
merchandise,  by  means  of  light  canoes,  which,  as  well  as  their  cargoes, 
are  carried  by  the  boatmen  around  the  falls  and  rapids  so  frequently  inter- 
rupting their  voyage.  The  Lewis  River  and  its  streams  offer  few  ad- 
vantages in  this  way  ;  as  they  nearly  all  rush,  in  their  whole  course,  through 
deep  and  narrow  chasms,  between  perpendicular  rocks,  against  which  a 
boat  would  be  momentarily  in  danger  of  being  dashed  by  the  current. 

From  the  point  of  junction  of  these  two  great  branches,  the  course  of 
the  Columbia  is  generally  westward  to  the  ocejin.  A  little  below  that 
point,  it  receives  the  Walla-Walla,  and  then,  in  succession,  the  Umatalla, 
John  Day's  River,  and  the  Chutes  or  Falls  River,  all  flowing  from  the 
south,  and  some  others,  of  less  size,  from  the  north.  Near  the  mouth  of 
the  Falls  River,  eighty  miles  below  the  Walla-Walla,  are  situated  the 
Falls,  or  Chutes,  as  they  are  called,  of  the  Columbia,  where  the  great 
stream  enters  a  gap  in  the  Far-West  range  of  mountains.  Four  miles 
farther  down  are  the  Dalles,  or  rapids  formed  by  the  passage  of  the 
waters  between  vast  masses  of  rock ;  and  thirty  miles  below  these  are  the 
Cascades,  a  series  of  falls  and  rapids  extending  more  than  half  a  mile, 
at  the  foot  of  which  the  tides  are  observable  at  the  distance  of  a  hundred 
and  twenty  miles  from  the  Pacific. 

A  few  miles  below  the  Cascades,  a  large  river,  called  the  Willamet, 
(the  Multonomah  of  Lewis  and  Clarke,)  enters  the  Columbia  from  the 
south,  by  two  branches,  between  which  is  an  extensive  island,  named 
Wappatoo  Island,  from  an  edible  root,  so  called,  found  growing  in  abun- 
dance upon  it.  Twenty-five  miles  from  the  mouth  of  this  river  are  its 
falls,  where  all  its  waters  are  precipitated  over  a  ledge  of  rocks  more 
than  forty  feet  in  height.     Beyond  this  point,  the  Willamet  has  been 


# 


''ft 
% 

7l» 


tl 

oj 

dl 


GEOGRAPHY    OF    OREGON. 


louth  of  the 
Lly  miles,  to 
I  decree  of 

lern  branch 
Jeep  valleys 
ude,  within 
e  Colorado, 
main  river, 
1  a  parallel 
ibling  teats, 
stward,  this 
th,  and  the 
)n  with  the 
ains  on  the 
:ains,  on  the 
ed  miles,  to 
reams  from 
Malade  or 
er,  and  the 
er,  from  the 

eams  which 

t  vessels  for 

1  branch  is 

eir  furs  and 

eir  cargoes, 

lently  inter- 

Fer  few  ad- 

se,  through 

St  which  a 

lurrent. 

course  of 

I  below  that 

Umatalla, 

from  the 

mouth  of 

[tuated  the 

the  great 

'our  miles 

[ge  of  the 

pse  are  the 

[if  a  mile, 

hundred 

^illamet, 

from  the 
named 

in  abun- 
tr  are  its 
;ks  more 

las  been 


traced  about  two  hundred  miles,  in  a  tortuous  course,  through  a  narrow 
but  generally  fertile  valley,  to  its  sources  in  the  Far-West  chain  of 
mountains,  near  the  4;}d  degree  of  latitude.  In  this  valley  were  formed 
the  earliest  agricultural  settlements  by  citizens  of  the  United  States  west 
of  the  Rocky  Mountains;  and,  from  all  accounts,  it  appears  to  present 
greater  advantages  of  soil  and  climate  than  any  other  part  of  the  country 
drained  by  the  Columbia. 

Descending  the  Columbia  forty  miles  from  the  lower  mouth  of  the  Wil- 
lamet,  we  find  a  small  stream,  called  the  Cowelitz,  entering  it  from  the 
north;  and,  thirty  miles  lower  down,  the  great  river,  which  is  nowhere 
above  more  than  a  mile  wide,  expands  to  the  breadth  of  four,  and,  in 
some  places,  of  seven,  miles,  before  mingling  its  waters  with  those  of  the 
Pacific ;  it,  however,  preserves  its  character  as  a  river,  being  rapid  in  its 
current,  and  perfectly  fresh  and  potable,  to  within  a  league  of  the  ocean, 
except  during  very  dry  seasons  and  the  prevalence  of  violent  westerly 
winds. 

The  Columbia  may  generally  be  ascended,  by  ships  of  three  or  four 
hundred  tons,  nearly  to  the  foot  of  its  cascades  :  the  navigation,  especially 
of  the  lower  part,  is,  however,  at  all  times,  difficult  and  dangerous,  in 
consequence  of  the  number  and  the  variability  of  the  shoals;  and  it  is 
only  in  fine  weather  that  vessels  can  with  safely  enter  or  leave  its  mouth, 
which  is  guarded  by  a  line  of  breakers,  extending  across  from  each  of  the 
capes. 

The  other  rivers  which  drain  the  parts  of  this  territory  near  the  sea 
are  numerous,  but  generally  small,  the  majority  being  merely  brooks, 
which  disappear  during  the  dry  season.  The  Umqua,  near  the  43d  degree 
of  latitude,  and  the  Chekelis,  which  empties  into  Bulfinch's  Harbor,  are 
the  principal  of  those  streams;  but  neither  of  them  offers  any  facilities  for 
commercial  communication. 

Of  the  chains  of  mountains  traversing  Oregon  from  north  to  south, 
the  most  remarkable  is  the  westernmost,  for  which  the  name  of  Far-West 
Mountains  has  been  here  proposed,  running  northward  from  California 
at  the  distance  of  eighty  or  a  hundred  miles  from  the  Pacific  coast. 
Under  the  49th  parallel, where  the  base  of  the  chain  is  washed  by  the 
easternmost  waters  of  the  Strait  of  Fuca,  it  is  divided  into  three 
distinct  ridges,  one  of  which  stretches  north-east,  to  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains, separating  the  waters  of  -the  Columbia  from  those  of  Fraser's 
River ;  another  overhangs  the  sea-coast  north-westward ;  and  the  islands  of 
the  North-West  Archipelago,  which  mask  the  shore  of  the  contijient  from  the 
49th  to  the  58th  parallels,  may  be  considered  as  a  third  ridge,  extending 
through  the  sea.  The  principal  peaks  of  this  chain,  in  Oregon,  are  Mount 
Baker,  near  the  49th  parallel.  Mount  Rainier,  under  the  47th,  and  Mount 
St.  Helen's,  the  highest  of  the  range,  which  rises,  probably,  not  less  than 
fifteen  thousand  feet  above  the  ocean  level,  due  east  of  the  mouth  of  the 
Columbia.  South  of  that  river  are  Mount  Hood,  near  the  45th  parallel ; 
Mount  Jefferson,  so  named  by  Lewis  and  Clarke,  under  the  44th ;  Mount 
Shasty,  near  the  43d ;  and  Mount  Jackson,  a  stupendous  pinnacle,  in  the 
latitude  of  41  degrees  40  minutes,  which  has  been  also  called  Mount  Pitt 
by  the  British  traders.  Some  of  these  peaks  are  visible  from  the  ocean, 
particularly  Mount  St.  Helen's,  which  serves  as  a  mark  for  vessels  entering 
the  Columbia ;  when  seen  from  the  highlands  farther  east,  they  present 
one  of  the  grandest  spectacles  in  nature.     This  chain  is  entirely  of  vol- 


I 


26 


GEOGRAPHY    01'    OREGON. 


'»i 


^11 


'I 


^'1( 


I 


ill.' 


canic  formation ;  and  it  must  contain  active  volcanoes,  as  there  are  nu 
other  means  of  accountini^  for  the  showers  of  ashes  which  occasionally 
fill!  in  many  parts  of  Orejron,  particularly  in  the  vicinity  of  Mount  St. 
Helen's.     The  latest  of  these  supposed  eruptions  took  place  in  1834. 

The  country  between  the  Pacific  coast  and  this  westernmost  chain 
consists,  like  the  part  of  California  similarly  situated,  of  ranges  of  lower 
mountains,  separated  by  narrow  valleys,  generally  running  parallel  to  the 
great  chain,  and  to  the  coast.  Its  superlicial  extent  may  be  estimated  at 
about  forty-five  thousand  s(juare  miles,*  of  which  a  small  proportion  only, 
not  exceeding  an  eighth,  is  fit  for  cultivation.  The  climate,  like  that  of 
California,  is  warm  and  dry  in  summer  ;  very  little  rain  falling  between 
April  and  November,  though  it  is  violent,  and  almost  constant,  during  the 
remainder  of  the  year.  Snow  is  rarely  seen  in  the  valleys,  in  which  the 
ground  frequently  continues  soft  and  unfrozen  throughout  the  winter. 
The  soil,  in  some  of  these  valleys,  is  said  to  be  excellent  for  wheat,  rye, 
oats,  peas,  potatoes,  and  apples  ;  fifteen  bushels  of  wheat  being  sometimes 
yielded  by  a  single  acre.  Indian  corn,  which  requires  both  heat  and 
moisture,  does  not  succeed  in  any  part  of  Oregon  Hogs  live  and  mul- 
tiply in  the  woods,  where  an  abundance  of  acorns  is  to  be  found ;  the 
cattle  also  increase,  and  it  is  not  generally  necessary  for  them  to  be 
housed  or  fed  in  the  winter.  The  hills  and  the  Hanks  of  the  great  moun- 
tains are  covered  with  timber,  which  grows  to  an  immense  size.  A  fir, 
near  Astoria,  measured  forty-six  feet  in  circuinforence  at  ten  feet  from  the 
earih  ;  the  length  of  its  trunk,  before  giving  off  a  branch,  was  one  hun- 
dred and  fifty-three  feet,  and  its  whole  height  not  less  than  three  hundred 
feet.  Another  tree,  of  the  same  species,  on  the  banks  of  the  Umqua 
River,  is  fifty-seven  feet  in  girth  of  trunk,  and  two  hundred  and  sixteen 
feet  in  length  below  its  branches.  "  Prime  sound  pines,"  says  Cox, 
*'  from  two  hundred  to  two  hundred  and  eighty  feet  in  height,  and  from 
twenty  to  forty  feet  in  circumference,  are  by  no  means  uncommon."  The 
land  on  which  these  large  trees  grow  is  good ;  but  the  labor  of  clearing 
it  would  be  such  as  to  prevent  any  one  from  undertaking  the  task,  until 
all  the  other  spots,  capable  of  cultivation,  should  have  been  occupied. 
From  the  peculiarities  of  climate  above  mentioned,  it  is  probable  that  this 
country  cannot  be  rendered  very  productive  without  artificial  irrigation, 
which  appears  to  be  prticticable  only  in  a  few  places;  and  that  conse- 
quently the  progress  of  settlement  in  it  will  be  much  slower  than  in  the 
Atlantic  regions  of  the  continent,  where  this  want  of  moisture  does  not 
exist. 

About  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  east  of  the  Far-West  Mountains  is 
another  chain,  called  the  Blue  Mountains,  stretching  from  the  Snowy 
Mountains  northward  to  the  47th  degree  of  latitude,  and  forming  the 

*  The  Strait  of  Fuca,  which  bounds  this  region  on  the  north,  is  in  latitude  of  48^ 
degrees ;  find,  assuming  the  4'2d  parallel  as  tne  southern  limit  of  the  territory,  its 
extreme  length  is  6i  degrees,  or  less  than  four  liiindrcd  and  fifty  miles  English.  Its 
breadth — that  is,  the  distance  between  the  Pacific  shore  ana  the  great  chain  of 
mountains  which  forms  the  eastern  boundary  of  this  region  —  does  not  average 
a  hundred  miles;  and,  by  multiplying  these  two  numbers,  forty-five  thousand  square 
English  miles  appears  as  the  superficial  extent  of  the  westernmost  region  of  Oregon. 
It  has,  however,  been  gravely  asserted  and  repeated  on  the  floor  of  the  Congress  of 
the  United  States,  that  the  valley  of  the  Willamet,  which  is  but  an  inconsiderable 
portion  of  this  region,  contains  not  less  than  aixty  tlwusand  square  miles  of  the  finest 
land  :  and  many  other  assertions,  equally  extravagant,  have  been  made,  and  are  be- 
lieved, respecting  the  vast  extent  of  land  in  the  country  of  the  Columbia,  superior  in 
quality  to  any  in  the  United  Slates. 


OEOORAPHV  OF  OREGON. 


97 


ire  are  no 

ccasionally 
Mount  St. 
1834. 

nost  clinin 
;s  of  lower 
alic-l  to  llic 
tiinatcd  at 
rtion  only, 
ike  that  of 
g  between 
during  the 
which  the 
lie  winter, 
ivheat,  rye, 
sometimes 
I  heat  and 
i  and  mul- 
found ;  the 
hem  to  be 
reat  moun- 
ze.  A  fir, 
Dt  from  the 
9  one  hun- 
;e  hundred 
he  Umqua 
md  sixteen 
I  says  Cox, 
and  from 
The 
clearing 
task,  until 
occupied, 
that  this 
irrigation, 
at  conse- 
an  in  the 
does  not 

untains  is 
Snowy 
ming  the 

jde  of  484 
rritory,  its 
glish.  Its 
chain  of 
average 
nd  square 
f  Oregon, 
norress  of 
nsiderable 
the  finest 
A  are  be- 
iperior  in 


western  wall  of  the  valley  of  the  Lewis,  the  great  southern  branch  of  the 
Columbia.      North  of  the  4Tth  degree  are  other  ridges,  which  appear 
to  be  continuations  of  the  Blue  INlountains;  but  they  are  less  defuied, 
and  arc  distinguished  l)y  other  names.     The  region  between  the  Blue  and 
the  Far- VV est  Mountains  embraces  several  tracts  of  country  comparatively 
level,  and  some  valleys  wider  than  those  of  the  Pacific  region  ;  the  soil  is, 
however,  less  productive,  and  the  climate  less  favovai  le  for  agriculture, 
than  in  the  places  similarly  situated  nearer  the  ocean.     The  most  exten- 
sive valleys  are  those  traversed  by  the  streams  flowing  into  the  Columbia 
from  the  .south,  between  the  Far-West  lange  and  the  Blue  Mountains, 
particularly  the  VV^ilhi-Walla,  and  the  Falls  or  Chutes  Jlivors:  the  plains, 
as  they  are  called,  though  they  are  rather  tracts  of  undulating  country, 
are  on  both  sides  of  the  northern  branch  of  the  Columbia,  between  the 
4<3th  and  the  49th  parallels  of  latitude.     The  surface  of  the  plains  consists 
generally  of  a  yellow,  sandy  clay,  covered  with  grass,  small  shrubs,  and 
prickly  pears ;  in  the  valleys  farther  soutii,  the  soil  is  somewhat  better, 
containing  less  of  sand  and  more  of  vegetable  mould,  and  they  give  sup- 
port to  a  few  trees,  chiclly  sumach,  cotton-wood,  and  other  soft  and  u.se- 
less  woods.     The  climate  of  this  whole  region  is  more  dry  than  that  of 
the  country  nearer  the  Pacific  ;  the  days  arc  warm,  and  the  nights  cool ; 
but  the  want  of  moisture  in  the  air  prevents  the  contrast  of  temperature 
from  being  injurious  to  health,  and  the  country  is  represented,  by  all  who 
have  hiid  the  op])ortunity  of  judging  by  experience,  as  being  of  extraordi- 
nary salubrity.     The  wet  season  extends  from  November  to  April;  but 
the  rains  are  nfithcr  frequent  nor  abundant,  and  they  never  occur  at  any 
other  period  of  the  year.     In  the  southern  valleys  there  is  little  snow; 
farther  north  it  is  more  common,  but  it  seldom  lies  long,  except  on  the 
heights,     liiu]  r  such  circumstances,  it  will  be  seen  that  little  encourage- 
ment is  ofl.  red  ''ir  the  cultivation  of  this  part  of  Oregon.     On  the  other 
hand,  the   phiuis   and   valleys  appear  to    be  admirably   adapted   for  the 
support  of  cattle,  <as  grass,  either  green  or  dry,  may  be  found  at  ail  times, 
within  a  short  distance,  on  the  bottom  lands  or  on  the  hill  sides.     The 
want  of  w(hm1  must  also  prove  a  great  obstacle  to  settlement,  as  this  indis- 
pensable article  can  only  be  procured  from  a  great  distance  up  the  north 
branch  of  the  Columbia,  or   from  the  Pacific  region,   with  which  the 
passages  of  communication  through  the  mountains  are  few  and  diOicult. 
The  country  farther  east,  between  the  Blue  Mountains  and  the  Rocky 
Mountaijis,  appears  to  be,  except  in  a  very  few  small  detached  spots,  ab- 
8olut(!ly  uninhabitable  by  those  who  depend  on  agriculture  for  subsistence. 
It  is,  in  fact,  a  collection  of  bare,  rocky  mountain  chains,  separated  by 
deep  gorges,  through  which  tlow  the  streams  produced  by  the  melting  of 
the  snows  on  the  summits ;  for  in  the  lower  grounds  rain  seldom  falls  at 
any  time.     On  the  borders  of  the  Lewis,  and  of  som?;  of  the  streams 
falling  into  it,  are  valleys  and  j)rairies,  producing  grass  fo,-  cattle  ;  but  all 
the  attempts  to  cultivate  the  esculent  vegetables  have  faiUd,  chiefly,  as  it 
is  believed,  from  the  great  difference  in  the  temperature  between  the  day 
and  the  succeeding  night,  especially  in  the  summer,  whicn  is  commonly 
not  less  than  thirty,  and  often  exceeds  fifty,  degrees  of  Fahrenheit's  ther- 
mometer.*    North  of  the  48th  parallel,  the  climate  is  less  dry,  and  the 

*  The  thermometer  was  seen  by  Wyeth,  at  Fort  Hall,  on  the  Lewis,  near  the  43d 

forallel  of  latitude,  at  the  freezing  point  in  the  morning,  and  at  ninety-ivodegrt'es  of 
'ahrenheit  in  the  middle  of  a  day  in  August.    Frosts  occur  at  this  pkce  in  nearly 
every  month  in  the  year. 


fft 


fi 


98 


GEOGRAPHY  OF  OREGON. 


II 


-'*! 


.m 


li 


ii 


Nil 


bases  of  the  mountains  are  covered  with  wood ;  but  the  temperature  in 
most  places  is  too  cohl  for  the  production  of  any  of  the  useful  grains  or 
garden  vegetables.  The  parts  of  this  region  which  appear  to  be  the  most 
favorable  for  agriculture,  arc  those  adjacent  to  the  Clarke  River,  and 
particularly  around  the  Kullerppdm,  or  Flathead  Lake,  where  the  hills 
are  well  clothed  with  oaks,  elms,  cedars,  and  pines,  and  the  soil  of  the 
low  grounds  is  of  good  quality. 

New  Caledonia  is  the  name  given  by  the  British  traders  to  the  country 
extending  north  and  west  of  the  Columbia  regions,  to  the  otjth  parallel  of 
latitude.  It  is  a  sterile  land  of  snow-clad  mountains,  tortuous  rivers,  and 
lakes  frozen  ovir  nearly  two  thirds  of  the  year ;  presenting  scarcely  a 
single  spot  in  vvhich  any  of  the  vegetables  used  as  food  by  civilized  people 
can  be  produced.  The  waters,  like  those  of  the  country  farther  south, 
however,  abound  in  fish,  which,  with  berries,  form  the  principal  support 
of  the  native  population.  The  largest  lakes  are  the  Babine,  communi- 
cating with  the  ocean  by  Simpson's  River,  and  Stuart's,  Quesnel's,  and 
Fraser's  Lakes,  the  outlet  of  al'  which  is  Fraser's  River,  a  long  but  shal- 
low stream,  emptying  into  the  Strait  of  Fuca  at  its  eastern  extremity. 
The  coast  of  this  country  is  very  irregular  in  outline,  being  penetrated  by 
many  bays  and  inlets,  running  up  from  the  sea  among  the  mountains 
which  border  that  side  of  the  continent;  between  it  and  the  open  Pa- 
cific lie  the  islands  of  the  North-West  Archipelago,  which  will  be  here 
described. 

The  North-West  Archipelago  is  a  remarkable  collection  of  islands, 
situated  in,  and  nearly  filling  a  recess  of  the  American  coast,  about  seven 
hundred  miles  in  length,  and  eighty  or  one  hundred  in  breadth,  which  ex- 
tends between  the  4^th  and  the  5^\h  parallels  of  hatituc'c;;  that  is  to  say, 
between  the  same  parallels  as  Great  Britain.  These  islands  are  in  number 
many  thousands,  presenting  together  a  surface  of  not  less  than  fifty  thou- 
sand .square  miles;  they  are,  however,  with  the  exception  of  nine  o;  ten, 
very  small,  and  tlie  greater  j)art  of  them  are  mere  rock°.  The  largest 
islands  are  all  traversed,  in  their  longest  direction,  from  south-ei.st  to  north- 
west, by  mountain  ridges;  and  the  whole  archipelago  may  be  considered 
as  a  range  connecting  tiin  T'\ir-West  mountains  of  Oregon  with  the  great 
chain  farther  north,  of  which  Mounts  Fairweather  and  St.  Elias  are  the 
most  prominent  pe;ik.-\ 

The  coasts  of  these  islands  are,  like  those  of  the  continent  in  their 
vicinity,  very  irregular  in  outline,  including  numerous  bays  and  inlets; 
and  the  channels  between  them  arc,  with  one  exception,  narrow  and 
tr)rtuons.  These  coasts  and  channels  were  minutely  surveyed,  during  the 
period  from  ITS')  to  1T95,  by  navigators  of  various  nations,  chiefly  with 
the  view  of  discovering  some  northern  pas«>age  of  communication  between 
the  Pacific  and  the  Atlantic  ;  and  the  true  geogrnphical  character  of  the 
islands,  which  had  previously  been  r-^garded  as  |)arts  of  the  continent, 
was  thus  ascertained.  Tlie  British,  under  Vancouver,  made  the  most 
complete  examination  of  the  archipelago,  and  bestowed  on  the  islands, 
channels,  capes,  nnd  bays,  a  number  of  names,  nearly  all  drawn  from  the 
lists  of  the  Britisu  royal  family,  peerage,  and  parliament,  some  of  which 
still  retain  their  pl.ices  on  maps,  though  few  of  them  will  probably  be  used 
when  those  parts  of  An  erica  are  occupied  by  a  civilized  population. 

Of  the  interior  of  tlie  islands  little  is  known;  but  from  all  accounts, 
they  are  generally  rocky  and  barren.     The  climate  of  the  southernmost 


nl 

lil 

III 

st 

thi 

in| 

cc 

iui 

thi 


GEOGRAPHY    OF    OREGON. 


29 


perature  in 
1  grains  or 
)e  the  most 
River,  and 
re  tlie  hills 
soil  of  the 

•he  country 
parallel  of 
rivers,  and 

scarcely  a 
ized  people 
rther  south, 
pal  support 
,  communi- 
esnel's,  and 
ig  but  shal- 
,  extremity, 
jnetrated  by 

mountains 
le  open  Pa- 
kfill  be  here 

of  islands, 
about  seven 
1,  which  ex- 
lat  is  to  say, 
e  in  number 
n  fifty  thou- 
line  o:   ten, 
'he  largest 
.st  to  north- 
considered 
h  the  great 
ias  are  the 

in  their 
ind  inlets ; 
[arrow  and 
[during  the 
Ihiefly  with 
\n  between 
:tpr  of  the 
[continent, 
the  most 
|e  islands, 
from  the 
of  which 
ly  be  used 
lion. 

[accounts, 
Ihernmost 


islands  appears  to  resemble  that  of  the  western  region  of  Oregon,  except 
that  it  is  less  dry  in  summer ;  farther  north,  the  rainy  season  increases  in 
length,  but  the  accompanying  increase  in  the  coldness  of  the  atmosphere 
neutralizes  any  advantages  for  cultivation  which  might  be  derived  from 
the  more  constant  supply  of  moisture.  Wood,  however,  seems  to  be 
every  where  abundant  near  the  coasts ;  and  this  may  prove  important,  as 
the  channels  of  the  archipelago  offer  great  facilities  for  communication 
by  steam  vessels. 

It  has  been  already  said  that  Russia  claims  all  the  coasts  and  islands 
north  of  the  parallel  of  54  degrees  40  minutes.  The  islands  south  of  that 
line  which  are  here  considered  as  attached  to  Oregon,  lie  in  three  groups. 

The  southernmost  group  embraces  one  large  island  and  an  infinite 
number  of  smaller  onei^  extending  from  the  4yth  parallel  to  the  51st,  and 
separated  from  the  continent,  on  the  south  and  east,  by  the  channel  called 
the  Strait  of  Fuca.  The  main  island  received,  in  1792,  the  long  and 
inconvenient  appellation  of  Island  of  Quadra  and  Vancouver,  in  virtue  of  a 
compromise  between  a  Britisii  and  a  Spanish  commander,  each  claim- 
ing the  merit  of  having  ascertained  its  insulation.  It  is  the  largest  in 
the  archipelago,  and,  indeed,  on  the  whole  west  coast  of  America,  being 
about  two  hundred  and  fifty  miles  in  length,  by  an  average  breadth  of 
forty-five  miles.  On  its  south-western  side  are  several  large  bays  contain- 
ing islands,  among  which  are  some  good  ports,  formerly  much  frequented 
by  fur  traders.  The  principal  of  these  places  is  Nootka  or  King  George's 
Sound,'  opening  to  the  Pacific  in  the  latitude  of  49i  degrees,  between 
Woody  Point,  on  the  north,  and  Point  Breakers,  on  the  south;  and  otfer- 
ing  a  safe  harbor  for  vessels  in  Friendly  Cove,  about  eight  miles  from  the 
ocean.  Ner.  Nootka,  on  the  east,  is  another  bay,  called  Clyocpiot;  far- 
ther in  the  same  direction,  at  the  entrance  of  the  Strait  of  Fuca,  is  iVitti- 
nat ;  and  within  the  strait  are  several  other  harbors,  generally  protected 
by  small  islands.  Nootka  Sound  was,  in  1T89,  I'm.-  scene  of  occurrences 
which  gave  to  it  much  celebrity,  as  they  first  rendered  the  north-west 
coasts  of  America  the  subject  of  dispute  and  convention  between  the 
governments  of  European  nations. 

Queen  Charlotte's  Island,  so  called  by  the  British,  or  Washington's 
Island,  as  it  was  named  by  the  Americans  in  178*^^  forms  the  centre  of 
another  group,  situated  between  the  latitudes  of  52  and  54  degrees,  at  a 
considerable  distance  from  the  continent.  The  principal  island  is  of  tri- 
angular foiin,  and  is  rather  smaller  in  superficial  extent  than  the  Island 
of  Quadra  and  Vancouver,  though  larger  than  any  other  in  the  archipelago. 
Its  north-western  extremity  received  from  the  Spanish  navigator  Perez, 
who  discovered  it  in  1774,  the  name  of  Cape  Santa  Margarita,  but  ia 
now  generally  known  as  Cape  North;  the  north-east  end  was  calird  by 
the  Americaus  Sandy  Point,  and  afierward,  by  the  Spaniards,  Cape  Invisi- 
ble ;  the  southern  extremity  is  Cape  St.  James.  The  island  presents  a 
number  of  bays,  affording  good  harbors,  which  were  first  examined,  sur- 
veyed, and  named,  by  tlie  American  fur  traders  ;  and  afterwards  received 
from  British  and  Spanish  navigators  the  appellations  usually  assij^ned  to 
them  on  maps.  The  principal  of  these  bays  are,  on  the  northern  side, 
Hancock's  River,  the  Port  Estrada  of  the  Spaniards,  near  Sandy  Point, 
and  Craft's  Sound,  or  Port  Mazarredo,  a  little  farther  west ;  on  the 
Pacific  coast  are  Port  Ingraham,  near  North  Cape,  and  Magee's  Sound, 
in  the  latitude  of  52^  degrees;  on   the  eastern  side  of  the  island  are 


Ift» 


,Ml 


30 


GEOGRAPHY    OF    OREGON. 


Skilikis.  in  latitude  of  53  degrees  20  minutes,  Cuinmasliawa,  a  few  rniles 
farther  south,  aud  still  farther  in  the  same  direction.  Port  Ucah  and  Port 
Sturges.  Tlie  country  around  some  of  these  places,  especially  Hancock's 
River  and  Magee's  Sound,  is  described  by  the  American  fur  traders  as 
fertile  and  beautiful,  and  enjoying  a  milder  climate  than  any  other  parts 
of  the  north-west  coasts. 

The  Princess  Royal's,  Burke's,  and  Pitt's  Islands  form  a  third  division 
of  the  North- West  Archipelago,  lying  near  to  each  other  and  to  the  con- 
tinent, immediately  east  of  Queen  Charlotte's  Island.  They  are  all  small 
and  rocky,  and  nothing  worthy  of  note  appears  in  the  accounts  of  them. 

To  the  aboriginal  inhabitants  of  Oregon  it  would  be  inconsistent  with 
the  plan  of  this  work  to  devote  much  attention.  They  are  all  savages; 
and  they  make  no  figure  in  the  history  of  the  country,  over  the  destinies 
of  which  they  have  not  exerted,  and  probably  never  will  exert,  any  influ- 
ence. The  principal  tribes  are  the  Chitsops  and  Chenooks,  occupying 
the  country  on  each  side  of  the  Columbia,  near  its  mouth  ;  the  Klamets 
and  lullamucks,  of  the  Umqua;  the  Classets,  on  the  Strait  of  Fuca; 
the  Kooianics,  and  the  Salish  or  Flatheads,  of  the  country  about  the 
northern  branches  of  the  Columbia,  and  the  Shoshones,  the  Sahaptins 
or  Nez-perces,  the  Kayouses,  Walla-Wallas,  and  Chopunnish,  who  rove 
through  the  resjions  of  the  Lewis  branch.  These  tribes  differ  inhabits 
and  disposition  only  so  far  as  they  are  affected  by  the  mode  of  life  which 
the  nature  of  the  coimtry  occupied  by  them  respectively  compels  them  to 
adopt ;  the  people  of  the  .sea-coasts,  who  venture  out  upon  the  oce^n,  and 
attack  the  whale,  being  generally  much  bolder  and  more  ferocious  than 
those  of  the  middle  country,  who  derive  their  subsistence  l)y  the  quiet 
and  unexciting  employments  of  fishing  in  the  river  and  digging  for  roots. 
Amonir  the  peculiar  li;il)its  of  some  of  the  tribes  should  be  mentioned 
that  of  compressing  the  heads  of  their  infants  by  boards  and  bandages,  so 
ns  materially  to  alter  their  sliape  ;  which  induced  the  discoverers  of  the 
country  to  apply  to  those  people  the  nanie  of  Flathead  Indians.  This 
custom  appears  to  have  prevailed  chiefly  among  the  tribes  of  the  lower 
Columbia,  and  but  little  among  those  dwelling  on  the  northern  branches 
of  the  river,  to  whom  the  api)ellati(m  of  Flatheads  is,  however,  at  present 
confined.  'JMie  Blackfeet,  so  much  dreaded  by  travellers  in  the  middle 
region,  chiefly  inhnbit  the  country  east  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  on  the 
Yellowstone,  and  the  Missouri  above  its  falls,  and  annually  make  in- 
roads upon  the  Shoshones  and  the  Chopmniish,  whom  they  rob  of  their 
horses,  their  only  wealth.  The  principal  tribes  in  the  country  north  of  the 
Columbia  regions,  are  the  Chilcotins  and  the  Talcotins,  between  whom 
the  most  deadly  hostility  subsists.  The  natives  of  the  North-West  Ar- 
chipelaiTo  are  the  most  cmining  and  ferocious  of  all  these  savages;  par- 
ticularly those  of  the  vicinity  of  Nootka,  who  appear  also  to  be  the  most 
intelligent.  The  number  of  the  aborigines  of  all  those  territories  cannot 
be  ascertained,  but  it  is  supposed  not  to  exceed  thirty  thousand,  and  is 
every  where  diminishing. 

Among  these  people,  missionaries  of  various  Christian  sects  have  long 
been  laboring  with  assiduity,  though,  as  it  would  seem,  from  all  accounts, 
with  little  advantage.  The  Roman  Catholics  have  made  the  greatest 
number  of  converts,  if  we  assume  the  reception  of  baptism  as  the  test 
of  conversion:  whole  tribes  submitting  at  once,  qn  the  first  summons,  to 
the  rite.     The  Methodists  and  Presbyterians  employ  themselves  chiefly  in 


If 
til 

SI 

w| 

ve 
of] 

Pr| 
to[ 

adi 


GEOGRAPHY  OF  OREGON. 


»1 


a  few  miles 
ih  and  Port 

Hancock's 
r  traders  as 

other  parts 

lird  division 
to  the  con- 
ire  all  small 
ts  of  them, 
isistent  with 
all  savages; 
he  destinies 
t,  any  influ- 
1,  occupying 
the  Klamets 
it  of  Fuca ; 
y  about  the 
D  Sahaptins 
I,  who  rove 
er  in  habits 
f  life  which 
pels  them  to 
;  ocetin,  and 
ocions  than 
l)y  the  quiet 
ng  for  roots. 
3  mentioned 
»andages,  so 
lercrs  of  the 
nns.     This 
the  lower 
n  branches 
at  present 
the  middle 
liiis,  on  the 
make    in- 
ob  of  their 
lorth  of  the 
vcen  whom 
i-West  Ar- 
ages;  par- 
)e  the  most 
ries  cannot 
Lind,  and  is 


imparting  a  knowledge  of  the  simplest  and  most  useful  arts,  and  have 
thus  induced  some  of  the  natives  to  engage  regularly  in  agricultural  pur- 
suits ;  but  the  poverty  of  the  soil  generally  renders  their  efforts  in  this 
way  unavailing.  The  last-mentioned  missionaries  also  endeavor  to  con- 
vey religious  and  literary  instruction  to  the  Indians  through  the  medium 
of  their  own  languages,  into  which  books  have  been  translated  and 
printed  in  the  country.  Perhaps  it  would  be  better  to  teach  the  natives 
to  speak  and  read  English ;  but  the  other  system  has  been  generally 
adopted  by  American  missionaries  in  all  parts  of  the  world. 

The  civilized  inhabitants  of  Oregon  are,  as  already  mentioned  in  the 
General  View,  either  citizens  of  the  United  States  or  servants  of  the 
British  Hudson's  Bay  Company :  the  latter  body  enjoying,  by  special 
grant  from  the  government,  the  use  of  all  the  territories  claimed  by  Great 
Britain  west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  as  well  as  the  protection  of  British 
Iciws,  in  virtue  of  an  act  of  Parliament ;  whilst  the  citizens  of  the  United 
States  remain  independent  of  all  authority  and  jurisdiction  whatever. 

The  establishments  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  have  been,  until 
recently,  devoted  exclusively  to  the  purposes  of  the  fur  trade:  but,  within 
a  few  years  past,  several  farms  have  been  laid  out  and  worked,  under  the 
direction  of  the  agents  of  the  company;  and  large  quantities  of  timber 
are  cut,  and  salmon  are  taken  and  cured,  for  exportation  to  the  Russian 
possessions,  to  Mexico,  and  to  the  Sandwich  Islands.  The  furs  are  ob- 
tained partly  by  hunters  and  trappers,  in  the  regular  service  of  the  com- 
pany, but  chierty  by  trade  with  the  Indians  of  the  surrounding  country  ; 
and  they  are  transported  from  the  different  establ'shments  in  the  interior, 
either  to  Montreal  or  to  York  Factory  on  Hudson's  Bay,  or  to  Fort  Van- 
couver on  the  Columbia,  whence  they  are  sent  in  the  company's  vessels 
to  London.  The  goods  for  the  trade,  and  the  supply  of  the  establish- 
ments, are  received  in  the  same  manner  ;  the  interior  transportation  being 
performed  almost  entirely  in  boats,  on  the  rivers  and  lakes,  between 
which  the  articles  are  carried  r-i  the  backs  of  the  voifagrurs  or  boatmen. 
The  regular  servants  of  the  company,  in  the  territories  west  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  are,  a  chief  factor,  two  chief  traders,  and  about  four  hundred 
clerks,  traders,  voyagcurs,  &lc.  ;  besides  whom,  nearly  as  many  laborers 
from  Canada  and  from  Europe  are  employed  on  the  farms,  and  Indians 
are  occasionally  engaged  when  wanted.  The  factors,  traders,  and  clerks, 
are,  for  the  most  part,  Scotchmen  or  Canadians;  the  hunters  and  other 
regular  servants  are  nearly  all  half-breeds.  The  company  maintains  on 
the  Pacific  coasts  one  steamer  and  six  or  eight  sail  vessels,  all  armed, 
and  three  large  ships  conduct  the  connnunications  between  the  Columbia 
and  London. 

The  establishments  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  are  generally  called 
forts,  and  are  sufficiently  fortified  to  resist  any  attacks  which  might  be 
expected.  Those  beyond  the  Rocky  Moimtains  are  in  number  about 
twenty-two,  of  which  several,  including  all  the  largest,  are  near  the  coasts. 

Fort  Vancouver,  the  principal  of  these  estid)lishments  west  of  the 
Rocky  Moimtains,  is  situated  near  the  north  bank  of  the  Columbia,  at  the 
distance  of  eighty-two  miles  in  a  direct  line  from  its  mouth,  and  about 
one  hundred  and  twenty  miles  following  the  course  of  the  stream.  The 
fort  is  simply  a  large,  square,  picketed  enclosure,  containing  houses  for 
the  residence  of  the  factor,  traders,  clerks,  and  upper  servants  of  the 
company,  magazines  for  the  furs  and  goods,  and  workshops  of  various 


.A***-'"^ 


32 


GEOGRAPHY    OF    OREGON. 


^'■1 


ii\ 


r4 


im 


If 


i' 


kinds;  immediately  behind  it  are  a  garden  and  orchard,  and  behind  these 
is  the  farm,  of  about  six  hundred  acres,  witli  barns  and  all  other  necessary 
buildinsr.s.  West  of  the  fort  are  the  hospital  and  houses  for  the  voyagcurs 
and  Indians;  about  two  miles  lower  down  the  river  are  the  dairy  and 
pii^fTcry,  with  numerous  herds  of  cattle,  hogs,  &lc.  ;  and  about  three  miles 
above  the  fort  are  water-mills  for  grinding  corn  and  sawing  plank,  and 
sheds  for  curing  salmon.  The  number  of  persons  usually  .attached  to  the 
post  is  not  less  than  seven  hundred,  of  whom  more  than  half  are  Indians 
of  the  country,  the  others  being  natives  of  Great  Britain,  Canadians,  and 
hall-breeds.  The  whole  establishment  is  governed  nearly  on  the  plan  of 
one  of  the  small  towns  of  Central  Europe  during  the  middle  ages;  the 
stockade  fort  representing  the  baronial  castle,  in  which  the  great  digni- 
taries of  the  company  exercise  almost  absolute  authority. 

Fort  George,  at  the  distance  of  ten  miles  from  the  Pacific,  on  the 
south  bank  of  the  Columbia,  occupies  the  site  of  a  trading  establishment 
calhid  Astoria,  formed  by  the  Americans  in  1811,  which  was  taken  by 
the  British  during  the  war  in  1813,  and,  though  subsequently  restored  in 
virtue  of  the  treaty  of  Ghent,  has  never  since  been  re-occupied  by  citizens 
of  the  United  States.  The  first  Duildings  were  destroyed  by  fire  in  1820 ; 
after  which,  some  small  houses  were  erected  by  the  Hudson's  Bay  Com- 
pany on  the  same  spot,  where  a  trader  and  three  or  four  other  persons 
generally  reside.  Fort  Umqua  is  near  the  mouth  of  the  Umqua  River, 
which  enters  the  Pacific  about  a  hundred  and  eighty  miles  south  of 
the  Columbia,  and  affords  a  harbor  for  small  vessels.  Fort  Nasqually  is 
at  the  mouth  of  a  little  river  emptying  into  Puget's  Sound,  the  southern- 
most part  of  the  great  bay  called  Admiralty  Inlet,  which  extends  .south- 
wardly into  the  ctmtinent  from  the  Strait  of  Fuca :  near  it  the  Hudson's 
Bay  Company  has  large  fai.ns,  which  are  said  to  be  in  a  prosperous 
condition  ;  this  pi. ice  is  also  the  seat  of  a  Roman  Catholic  mission, 
under  the  direction  of  a  bishop  iii  nnrtihiis,  (the  bishop  of  Juliopolis,) 
whose  influence  is,  no  doubt,  important  to  the  company,  as  the  majority 
of  its  servants  are  of  that  religion.  Fort  Langley  is  at  the  entrance  of 
Fraser's  River  into  the  easter.'i  extremity  of  the  Strait  of  Fuca,  in  lati- 
tude of  40  degrees  25  minutes;  farther  north  is  Fort  M'Loughlin,  on 
Milbank  Sound,  and  Fort  Simpson,  on  Douglas  Island,  in  the  North- 
VVest  Archipelago,  in  latitude  W.)  degrees.  The  company  has  moreover 
made  an  agreement  with  the  Russians,  who  claim  the  coasts  and  islands 
north  of  the  parallel  of  54  degrees  40  minutes,  by  which  the  British 
traders  enjoy  the  exclusive  use  of  the  coasts  of  the  continent,  extending 
from  that  parallel  to  Cape  Spenser,  near  the  58th  degree ;  and  a  post  has 
been  in  consequence  established  near  the  mouth  of  the  Stikine,  a  large 
river  emptying  into  the  channel  called  Prince  Frederick's  Sound,  in  the 
latitude  of  5G  degrees  50  minutes. 

In  the  interior  of  the  continent,  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  has  on  the 
Columbia,  above  its  falls.  Fort  Walla-Walla,  or  Nez-Perce,  on  the  ea.st 
side  of  the  northern  branch,  near  its  confluence  with  the  southern;  Fort 
Olunagan,  at  the  entrance  of  the  Okinagan  River  into  the  north  or  main 
branch ;  Fort  Colville,  near  the  Kettle  Falls ;  and  some  others,  of  less 
consequence.  On  the  Lewis,  or  great  southern  branch,  are  Fort  Boise, 
at  the  mouth  of  the  Boise,  or  Reed's  River,  and  Fort  Hall,  at  the  en- 
trance of  the  Portneuf  North  of  the  Columbia  country  are  Fort  Al- 
exandria, on  Fraser's  River,  and  others  on  the  lakes,  which  abound  in 


ll 


GEOGRAPHY    Oi'    UREGON. 


33 


;hind  these 
•  necessary 
voyageurs 
dairy  and 
tliree  miles 
plank,  and 
ched  to  the 
ire  Indians 
adians,  and 
he  plan  of 
J  ages ;  the 
rreat  digni- 

fic,  on   the 
tablishment 
s  taken  by 
restored  in 
by  citizens 
re  in  1820 ; 
i  Bay  Com- 
her  persons 
iqua  River, 
3s  south  of 
Vasqually  is 
le  southern- 
tends  south- 
le  Hudson's 
I  prosperous 
lie  mission, 
Juliopolis,) 
he  majority 
entrance  of 
uca,  in  lati- 
oughlin,  on 
the  North- 
s  moreover 
and  islands 
the  British 
extending 
a  post  has 
me,  a  large 
lund,  in  the 

has  on  the 
Ion  the  east 
Ihern ;  Fort 
Irth  or  main 
Iters,  of  less 
Fort  Boise, 

at  the  en- 
|e  Fort  Al- 

abound  in 


that  part  of  the  continent.  All  these  are,  however,  on  a  very  small  scale, 
and  seldom  contain  more  than  two  or  three  clerks  or  traders,  and  a  few 
Indians  or  hali-breed  hunters. 

The  citizens  of  the  United  States  in  Oregon,  previous  to  1843,  did  not 
probably  exceed  four  hundred  in  number,  nearly  all  of  whom  were  estab- 
lished as  farmers,  graziers,  or  mechanics,  in  the  valley  of  the  Willamet, 
and  on  the  Walla-Walla;  very  few  being  engaged  in  any  commercial 
pursuit.  Their  condition  appears  to  have  been  prosperous,  in  conse- 
quence, there  is  reason  to  believe,  of  their  industry,  economy,  and 
morality,  rather  than  of  any  particular  advantages  offered  by  the  country. 
The  Protestant  missionaries  reside  on  the  Willamet,  at  the  Falls  of  the 
Columbia,  near  Walla-Walla,  in  the  Spokun  and  Kotanie  countries,  and 
in  some  other  places,  where  they  labor  for  their  own  support,  as  well  as 
for  the  improvement  and  conversion  of  the  natives.  The  first  printing 
press,  west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  was  set  up  at  the  Walla-Walla 
mission,  in  1839 ;  on  it  books  are  now  printed  from  types  set  up  by  na- 
tive compositors.  The  Roman  Catholics,  from  Missouri,  have  also 
several  stations,  principally  in  the  regions  of  the  Clarke  River,  in  which 
thev  appear  to  be  laboring  diligently  for  the  advancement  of  their  own 
religicm. 

The  number  of  American  citizens  in  Oregon  was,  however,  nearly 
quadrupled,  in  the  latter  part  of  1843,  by  the  arrival  of  more  than  a  thou- 
sand persons  —  men,  women,  and  children — from  the  Mississippi  val- 
ley;* and  a  still  greater  number  went  thither  in  the  following  year. 
These  emigrants  will,  most  probably,  likewise  establish  themselves  in 
the  Willamet  valley,  or  on  the  UiiKjua,  in  which  regions  there  is  a 
sufiiciency  of  good  land  for  the  support  of  more  than  a  hundred  thou- 
sand persons;  and  they  will  be  able  at  once  to  obtain  the  means  of 
subsistence,  as  the  majority  of  them  have  been  doubtless  accustomed 
from  their  childhood  to  the  labors  and  privations  incident  to  the  settle- 
ment of  a  new  country.  Few  of  them  will  be  disposed  to  fix  their 
residence  in  the  territory  north  of  the  Columbia,  which  is  claimed  by 
Great  Britain,  until  the  question  of  right  between  that  power  and  the 
United  States  shall  have  been  definitively  determined. 

The  trappers  and  hunters  from  the  United  States  have  been  compelled, 
in  consequence  of  the  exclusive  measures  adopted  by  the  Hudson's  Bay 
Company,  to  quit  the  regions  of  the  Columbia,  and  confine  themselves 
to  the  nortli-western  part  of  California,  about  the  head-waters  of  the 
Colorado  River  and  the  Utah  Lake.  In  the  summer  of  each  year,  they 
repair,  with  the  produce  of  their  labors,  to  certain  places  of  rendezvous, 
where  they  meet  the  traders,  bringing  clothes,  hardware,  arms,  ammu- 
nition, groceries,  and  other  articles,  from  Missouri ;  and  an  exchaniro  of 
merchandise  is  effected  to  the  benefit  of  both  parties.  The  principal  ren- 
dezvous is  on  the  banks  of  the  Sidskadee  or  Green  River,  one  of  the  con- 
fluents of  the  Colorado,  situated  near  the  western  extremity  of  the  great 
gap  in  the  Rocky  Mountains,  called  the  South  Pass,  through  which  all 
the  communications  between  the  regions  of  the  Mississippi  on  the  one 
side,  and  Oregon  and  California  on    the  other,  are  conducted. 

•  According  to  an  enumeration  made  at  their  encampment  on  the  Big  Blue  River, 
•oon  after  their  departure  from  the  Missouri,  the  numbers  of  the  emigrants  in  1843, 
were  553  males  and  449  females,  of  all  ages,  making  a  total  of  1000.  They  car- 
ried vrith  them  121  wagons,  296  horses,  698  oxen  in  draught,  and  973  loose  cattle. 


84 


GEOGRAPHY     OF     OREGON. 


These  commiinications  are  effected  entirely  by  land ;  for,  although  the 
unoccupied  territories  of  the  United  States,  east  of  the  Rocky  Mountains, 
are  traversed  by  the  Missouri,  and  its  great  tributaries  the  Yellow  Stone, 
the  Platte,  the  Kanzas,  and  the  Osage,  and  further  south,  by  the  Arkan- 
sas and  Red  rivers  emptying  into  the  Mississippi,  these  streams  afford 
few  facilities,  either  for  travel,  or  for  the  tr<insportation  of  goods.  The 
Missouri  river  is  useful  for  communication  with  Oregon,  no  farther  up 
than  the  mouth  of  the  Platte  ;  and  the  latter  river,  though  its  position  and 
course  are  precisely  such  as  could  be  desired,  is  so  shallow,  and  presents 
so  many  impediments  to  navigation,  that  the  lightest  boat  cannot  ascend, 
or  descend  it,  without  much  difficulty,  even  when  its  waters  are  highest. 
To  what  distance  the  Arkansas  and  Red  rivers  may  be  ascended  by 
boats,  is  not  yet  determined;  but,  it  is  probable,  that  the  head  of  naviga- 
tion, of  the  Arkansas,  is  nearer  to  the  best  passes  in  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains, than  the  mouths  of  the  Kanzas,  or  the  Platte; 

The  town  of  Independence,  in  the  State  of  Missouri,  near  the  conflu- 
ence of  the  Kanzas  with  the  Missouri,  is  now  the  usual  place  of  departure, 
and  arrival,  to  and  from  Oregon,  and  New  Mexico.  The  route  to  Ore- 
gon, extends  along  the  Kanzas  and  its  northern  branch,  called  the  Re- 
publican Fork,  towards  the  Platte  ;  then  along  the  main  Platte  and  its 
northern  branch,  to  Fort  Laramie,  a  private  fur-trading  post,  situated  at 
the  junction  of  the  north  branch,  with  a  small  stream  from  the  south, 
called  Laramie's  Fork,  seven  hundred  and  fifty  miles  from  Independence. 

From  this  place,  the  road,  or  trail,  continues  along  the  Platte,  and 
through  the  Black  Hills,  an  irregular  range  skirting  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains, to  the  south  pass  in  the  latter  chain,  where  lie  the  sources  of  the 
Platte,  distant  two  hundred  and  fifty  miles  from  Fort  Laramie.  A  march 
of  a  few  hours  through  this  pass,  brings  the  traveller  to  the  Sandy  River, 
a  branch  of  the  Green,  or  Sidskadee  River,  the  main  stream  of  the  Colo- 
rado :  crossing  the  Green  River,  and  ascending  one  of  its  western  tribu- 
taries called  Ham's  Fork,  he  thence  passes  over  a  small  ridge  to  the  Bear 
River,  the  principal  feeder  of  the  Utah  Salt  Lake  ;  this  he  follows,  north- 
westward, to  the  Soda  or  Beer  Springs,  and  thence,  crossing  another 
ridge,  he  reaches  the  valley  of  the  Portiieuf,  down  which,  he  makes  his 
way  to  Fort  Hall,  a  trading  post  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  at  the 
confluence  of  the  Lewis  with  the  Portneuf,  two  hundred  and  fifty  miles 
from  the  South  Pass,  and  one  thousand  two  hundred  and  fifty  miles  from 
Independence. 

Another  route  from  Independence  to  the  Colorado,  bus  been  surveyed 
in  1844,  by  Lieutenant  Fremont  during  his  long  and  laborious  expedition, 
through  Oregon  and  California,  of  which  a  Report  will  soon  be  published. 
From  the  manner  in  which  this  accomplished  otHcer  conducted  his  sur- 
vey of  the  valley  of  the  Platte,  there  is  every  reason  to  expect  that  he  will 
throw  much  light  on  the  geography  of  those  countries,  particularly  of  the 
region  between  the  Utah  Lake,  and  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco. 

The  route  to  Fort  Hall,  presents  comparatively  few  difficulties,  and  is 
traversed,  every  summer,  by  hundreds  of  wagons.  The  remainder  of  the 
journey  is  attended  with  many  inconveniences  ;  some,  arising  from  the  na- 
ture of  the  ground,  which  may,  however,  be  lessened  or  removed,  by  the 
application  of  labor,  at  certain  points ;  and  ntheis,  from  the  want  of 
water  and  food,  for  cattle.  Travellers,  with  wagons,  generally  follow  the 
Lewis,  from  Fort  Hall,  down  to  the  vicinity  of  the  entrance  of  the  river 


1 
t 
I 


GEOGRAPHY     OF     OUEGON. 


35 


into  the  Blue  Mountains,  and  thence,  jro  northward,  to  the  upper  part  of 
the  Boise  or  Reed's  River,  tliroufrh  the  valley  of  which,  they  regain  the 
Lewis,  at  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company's  post  of  Fort  Boise ;  there  they 
cross  the  Lewis,  and  thence,  strike  over  the  country,  through  the  heauti- 
ful  valley  called  the  Grand  Round,  to  the  confluence  of  the  Walla-Walla 
with  the  main  Columhia,  five  hundred  miles  from  Fort  Hall.  Those  on 
toot,  or  on  horseback,  find  more  direct  lines  of  comnmnication  between 
these  two  places. 

Below  the  Widla-Walla,  the  obstacles  to  the  passage  of  wheel  carriages, 
are,  at  present,  such  as  to  preclude  the  use  of  them  almost  entirely ;  and 
the  numerous  rapids  and  whirljxMjls  in  the  Columbia,  render  the  voyage 
down  to  the  Falls  of  that  river,  exceedingly  dangerous.  Near  the  termi- 
nation of  the  cascades,  or  lowest  falls,  is  Fort  Vancouver,  distant  two 
hundred  and  fifty  miles  from  the  Walla-Walla,  and  one  hundred  and 
twenty-five  from  the  Pacific :  and  six  miles  below  that  Fort<  is  the  mouth 
of  the  Willamet,  in  the  upper  part  of  the  valley  of  which  river,  the 
American  settlements  are  mostly  situated. 

The  passage  across  the  Continent,  through  the  British  territories,  is 
much  longer,  and  more  circuitous :  it  is  efl'ected,  as  already  said,  chiefly 
in  canoes  on  the  rivers  and  lakes;  therestof  the  journey  being  performed 
on  foot,  or  in  some  places,  on  horseback.  The  traders  of  the  Hudson's 
Bay  Company,  leaving  Fort  Vancouver,  ascend  the  Columbia  and  its 
northern  branch,  alternately  on  the  river,  and  along  its  banks,  about  eight 
hundred  miles,  to  the  Pass  in  the  Rocky  Mountains,  near  the  52d  degree 
of  latitude.  Thence,  they  cross,  by  land,  five  hundred  miles,  to  Edmon- 
ton, on  the  north  branch  ofthe  Saskatchawine,  which  river  they  descend, 
to  Norway  House,  near  the  northern  extremity  of  Lake  Winnipeg,  distant 
not  less  than  twelve  hundred  miles  from  Edmonton.  From  Norway 
House,  they  go,  either  to  York  Factory,  on  Hudson's  Bay,  distant  about 
eight  hundred  miles,  or  through  Lake  Winnipeg,  the  Lake  ofthe  Woods, 
Rainy  Lake,  Savannah  River,  and  other  connecting  waters,  to  Fort  Wil- 
liam, the  great  depository  ofthe  Company,  at  the  north-west  extremity  of 
Lake  Superior,  about  eight  hundred  miles  from  Norway  House,  and  nine 
hundred  from  Montreal.  Another  route  from  the  Rocky  Mountain  gap, 
to  Fort  William,  passes  along  the  south  branch  ofthe  Saskatchawine,  the 
Assinaboin,  and  the  Red  River  country;  but  the  portages  are  so  much 
longer,  that  it  is  little  used  for  transportation  of  articles  across  the  conti- 
nent. 

Thus  it  appears  that  the  distance  to  the  Lower  Columbia,  from  the 
frontiers  of  Canada,  is  about  twelve  hundred  miles  greater  than  from  the 
westernmost  point  in  the  States  of  the  American  Union.  The  journey 
through  the  British  territories,  is  indeed  performed  at  present,  in  less 
time,  by  the  servants  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  than  the  caravans 
of  men,  women  and  children,  from  the  United  States,  employ  in  their 
passage  along  the  Platte,  and  the  Lewis  :  but  the  road  for  the  latter  will 
be  constantly  improving,  and  the  journey  must  annually  become  less  in 
actual  distance,  and  much  less  laborious  and  tedious  ;  whilst  the  more 
northern  route  will  forever  remain  in  its  present  condition,  scarcely  pass- 
able by  any,  except  the  hardy  and  experienced  traders,  and  voyageurs  of 
the  British  Company. 


RUSSIAN    AMERICA. 


di 
b( 
R 

ai 
t 


C 

fi 


Russia  claims,  as  already  said,  in  virtue  of  the  discoveries  and  settle- 
ments of  her  subjects,  and  of  treaties  with  tiic  United  States  and  Great 
Britain,  the  whole  division  of  the  American  continent,  and  the  adjacent 
islands,  north  of  the  latitude  of  54  degrees  40  minutes,  and  west  of  a 
line  drawn  from  that  latitude,  northward,  along  the  highlands  bordering 
the  Pacific  Ocean  to  Mount  St.  Elias,  and  thence  due  north  to  the 
Arctic  Sea.  This  power  also  claims  the  whole  of  Asia,  extending  on  the 
Pacific  north  of  the  51st  parallel,  all  the  Aleutian  Islands,  and  all  the 
Kurile  Islands,  north  of  the  latitude  of  45  degrees  40  minutes. 

Of  the  parts  of  America  thus  claimed  by  Russia,  the  islands  and  the 
coasts  of  the  continent  have  been  explored,  and  some  have  been  surveyed 
with  care ;  several  rivers,  also,  have  been  traced  to  considerable  distances 
from  their  mouths :  the  interior  regions  are,  however,  but  little  known, 
and,  from  all  accounts,  they  do  not  seem  to  merit  the  labor  and  expense 
which  would  be  required  for  their  complete  examination.  Only  small 
portions  of  the  islands  are  fit  for  agriculture,  or  for  any  purpose  useful  to 
man,  except  fishing  and  hunting;  the  remaining  territories  present  to  the 
eye  nothing  but  rocks,  snow,  and  ice. 

The  exclusive  use  and  government  of  all  the  islands  and  ports  of 
America  above  mentioned  are  granted  by  charter  from  the  emperor  of 
Russia  to  a  body  called  the  Russian  American  Trading  Company,  which 
has  established  on  their  coasts  a  number  of  forts,  settlements,  and  factories, 
all  devoted  to  the  purposes  of  the  fur  trade  and  fishery ;  the  coast  of  the 
continent,  south-west  of  the  58th  degree  of  latitude,  has,  however,  been, 
as  already  mentioned,  leased  to  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  until  the  1st 
of  June,  1850,  at  an  annual  rent,  payable  in  furs.  The  inhabitants  of  the 
Kurile,  the  Aleutian,  and  the  Kodiak  Islands  are  regarded  as  the  immedi- 
ate subjects  of  the  company ;  in  the  oervice  of  which,  every  man,  between 
the  ages  of  eighteen  and  fifty  years,  may  be  required  to  pass  at  least  three 
years.  The  natives  of  the  country  adjoining  the  two  great  bays  called 
Cook's  Inlet  and  Prince  William's  Sound,  are  also  under -the  control  of 
this  body,  and  are  obliged  to  pay  an  annual  tax  in  furs,  though  they  are  not 
compelled  to  enter  the  regular  service.  All  the  other  aborigines  are  con- 
sidered as  independent,  except  that  they  are  allowed  to  trade  only  with  the 
Russian  American  company.  By  the  latest  accounts,  the  number  of  Rus- 
sian establishments  was  twenty-six,  all  situated  south  of  Bering's  Strait. 
The  immediate  subjects  of  the  company  were  seven  hundred  and  thirty 
Russians,  fourteen  hundred  and  forty-two  Creoles,  or  children  of  Rus- 
sian fathers  by  native  mothers,  and  eleven  thousand  aborigines  of  the 
Kurile,  Aleutian,  and  Kodiak  Islands ;  the  number  of  the  natives  in- 
habiting the  other  regions  cannot  be  ascertained,  but  must  be  very  small, 
when  compared  with  the  extent  of  the  surface.     • 

The  Russian  American  territories  are   politically  divided   into  six 


GEOGHAPHY    OF    IlUSSIiN    AMERICA. 


37 


le- 

lat 

|nt 

a 


districts,  each  of  which  is  under  the  direction  of  an  agent ;  tlie  whole 
being  superintended  by  a  governor-general,  usually  an  oflicer  of  the 
Russian  navy,  residing  at  the  cajjital  of  the  possessions.  The  fura 
are  collected  either  by  persons  in  the  regular  service  of  the  company,  or  as 
taxes  from  its  subjects,  or  by  trade  with  the  independent  natives;  and  tliey 
are  transported  in  its  vessels  to  I'etropawlowsk  in  Kamtchatka,  or  to 
Ochotsk,  in  Siberia,  or,  by  special  permission  of  the  Chinese  government,  to 
Canton,  or  to  the  European  ports  of  Russia ;  the  supplies  being  received 
from  those  places  by  the  same  vessels. 

The  district  of  Sitka  comprehends  the  islands  of  the  North-West  Ar- 
chipelago, and  the  coasts  of  the  American  continent,  northward  from 
the  parallel  of  54  degrees  40  minutes,  to  Mount  St.  Elias.  The  islands 
are  six  large,  and  an  infinite  number  of  smaller  ones,  separated  from 
each  other,  and  from  the  main  land,  by  narrow,  but  generally  navig-LIe 
channels.  The  large  islands  are  those  distinguished  on  English  maps 
as  Prince  of  Wales's  Island,  the  southernmost,  between  wliicii  and  the 
continent,  on  the  east,  are  the  Duke  of  York's  and  the  Revillafficredo 
Islands;  farther  north,  on  the  ocean,  is  King  George  the  Third's  Ar- 
chipelago, including  Baranof's  and  Tchichagof's  Islands;  and  east  of 
these  latter  are  Admiralty  and  some  other  islands. 

Opposite  the  western  end  of  the  channel,  separating  Baranof's  from 
Tchichagof's  Island,  is  a  small  island,  consisting  of  a  single  and  beautiful 
conical  peak,  rising  from  the  ocean,  which  received  from  its  Spanish 
discoverers,  in  1775,  the  name  of  Moiuit  San  Jacinto,  but  is  better  known 
by  the  English  appellation  of  Mount  Edgecumb  ;  a  narrow  passage,  called 
Norfolk  Sound,  separates  it  from  Baranof's  Island,  on  the  shore  of  which 
stands  Sitka,  or  New  Archangel,  the  capital  of  Russian  America.  This 
is  a  small  town,  of  wooden  houses,  covered  mostly  with  iron,  protected,  or 
rather  overlooked,  by  batteries,  and  inhabited  by  about  a  thousand  per- 
sons, of  whom  nearly  one  half  are  Russians,  the  majority  of  the  others 
being  Creoles.  The  governor's  house  is  large  and  substantially  built, 
and  is  surmounted  by  a  lighthouse;  the  fortifications,  which  are  also  of 
wood,  are  armed  by  about  forty  guns :  attached  to  the  establishment  are 
an  extensive  arsenal,  including  a  ship-yard,  a  foundery,  and  shops  for 
various  artificers,  a  hospital,  and  a  church,  splendidly  adorned  in  the 
interior.  Sitka,  moreover,  though  thus  remote  from  all  civilized  coun- 
tries, contains  several  schools,  in  which  the  children  are  instructed  at  the 
expense  of  the  company,  a  library  of  two  thousand  volumes,  a  cabinet  of 
natural  history,  and  an  observatory  supplied  with  the  instruments  most 
necessary  for  astronomical  and  magnetic  observations. 

On  comparing  the  results  of  meteorological  observations,  it  appears 
that  the  mean  temperature  of  every  month  of  the  year,  at  Sitka,  is  higher 
than  that  of  any  place  in  America,  east  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  within 
several  degrees  of  the  same  latitude.  No  attempts  at  cultivation  have, 
however,  been  made  there  or  in  any  other  part  of  Russian  America,  except 
at  the  settlement  of  Ross,  in  California,  on  a  scale  sufficiently  large  to 
authorize  any  opinions  as  to  the  agricultural  value  of  the  soil. 

The  district  of  Kodiak  comprises  all  the  coasts  from  the  North-West 
Archipelago;  northward  and  westward,  to  the  southern  extremity  of  the 
peninsula  of  Aliaska,  with  the  adjacent  islands,  as  also  a  portion  of  the 
coast  of  the  Sea  of  Kamtchatka,  on  the  north-west  side  of  Ali.aska.  The 
largest  island  is  Kodiak,  situated  near  the  east  coast  of  Aliaska,  from 


88 


OEOGUAPilY    OV    RUSSIAN    AMERICA. 


which  it  is  separated  by  the  Strait  of  Schelikof,  and  containing,  on  its 
north-east  side,  St.  Paul's,  an  inconsiderable  place,  lornierly  the  capital 
of  Jlnssiuii  An<erica.  Norih  of  Kodiak,  an  arm  of  the  ocj^an,  called  by 
the  English  Couk's  Iidet,  and  by  Russians  the  Uulf  of  Kenay,  stretches 
northwardly  into  th^  continent  nearly  two  hundred  miles;  ea!?t  of  which, 
and  separated  from  it  by  a  peninsula,  is  another  j^reat  bay,  culled  Prince 
William's  Sound,  or  the  Gulf  of  Tschugatsch,  containinir  a  number  of 
islands;  and  still  farther  east  is  Comptroller's  Bay,  into  which  empties 
Copper  River,  the  largest  stream  Howing  from  this  part  of  America. 
Eacli  of  these  bays  was  minutely  e.xamined  by  Cook,  in  1778,  and  by 
Vancouver,  in  171)4,  while  in  search  of  a  passage  to  the  Atlantic ;  and 
several  good  harbors  were  thus  discovered,  ou  the  shores  of  which  the 
Russians  have  formed  trading  establishments. 

Tlie  most  remarkable  natural  feature  of  this  part  of  America  is,  how- 
ever, the  great  volcanic  peak  of  Mount  St.  Elias,  wiiich  rises  from  tlie 
shore  of  the  Pacific,  under  the  61st  parallel  of  latitude,  to  the  height  of 
more  than  seventeen  thousand  feet  above  the  ocean  level.  Near  it,  on  the 
south-east,  is  Mount  Fairweather,  oidy  two  thousand  feet  less  in  elevation; 
and  between  the  two  peaks  lies  Admiralty,  or  Bering's,  or  Yakutat  Bay, 
where  the  Russian  navigators  Bering  and  Tchirikof  are  supposed  to 
have  first  anchored  on  their  voyage  of  discovery  from  Kamtchatka, 
in  1741. 

The  peninsula  of  Aliaska  is  a  chain  of  lofty  volcanic  mountains, 
stretching  through  the  Pacific  from  the  latitude  of  59  degrees  south-west- 
ward to  that  of  54  degrees  4U  minutes.  The  most  elevated  peak,  called 
Mount  Scheschaldin,  is  frecjuently  in  action,  throwing  forth  large  quanti- 
ties of  lava  and  ashes.  Near  the  southern  extremity  of  the  peninsula,  on 
the  east,  is  the  group  of  small  islands,  called  the  Schuinagin  Islands;  and 
from  the  same  extremity,  as  if  in  contiimation  of  the  peninsula,  the  Aleu- 
tian Islands  extend,  at  short  distances  apart,  in  a  line  nearly  due  westward, 
more  than  six  hundred  miles,  to  the  vicinity  of  Kamtchatka. 

The  Aleutian  Islands  include  two  districts  of  the  Russian  American 
possessions.  The  easternmost  and  largest  islands  of  the  archipelago, 
called  the  Fox  Islands,  among  which  are  Unimak,  Unalashka,  and  Umnak, 
and  the  small  group  of  the  Prdjulow  Islands,  lying  a  little  farther  north 
and  west  of  Aliaska,  form  the  district  of  Unalashka.  The  district  of 
Atcha  comprises  the  other  islands,  which  are  small,  and  are  divided  into 
three  groups,  called  the  Rat,  the  Andreanowsky,  and  the  Commodore 
Islands.  These  islands  are  all  mountains,  rising  above  the  sea,  some  of 
them,  to  a  great  height:  oidy  the  larger  ones  are  inhabited,  or  indeed 
habitable  ;  the  others  arc  visited  at  certain  periods  by  the  Russian  hunt- 
ers and  fishermen,  in  search  of  the  animals  which  abound  on  their  shores. 
The  principal  .settlement  is  Illiluk,  on  the  Bay  of  Samagoondha,  in  the 
north-east  part  of  Unalashka,  which  is  also  the  residence  of  a  bishop  of 
the  Greek  church. 

The  northern,  or  Michaelof,  district  includes  all  the  territories  and 
islands  of  America,  north  of  Aliaska,  bordering  on  the  division  of  the 
Pacific,  called  the  Sea  of  Kamtchatka,  which  extends  from  the  Aleutian 
Islands  to  Bering'*  Strait :  the  only  establishments,  however,  are  those 
on  the  .shores  of  the  great  gidf  of  that  sea,  called  Norton's  Sound,  .south 
of  the  64th  parallel  of  latitude.  The  principal  of  these  establishments 
is  Fort  St    Michael,  near  Stuart's  Island,  to  which  furs,  skins,  oil,  and 


GEOGRAPHY    OF    THE    SANDWICH    ISLANDS. 


89 


le 
f 


ivory  tusks,  are  brought  by  the  Esquimaux  und  Tchukskies  from  the 
islands  near  Bering's  Strait  and  the  shores  of  the  Arctic  Sea.  Several 
expeditions  have  been  recently  made  by  Russian  oflicers  into  the  interior 
of  these  countries,  in  which  two  large  rivers,  the  Kwikpak  and  the 
Kuskokwim,  emptying  into  the  sea  between  the  (30th  and  the  03d  de- 
grees of  latitude,  were  traced  to  groat  distances  from  their  mouths. 

The  part  of  Asia  bathed  by  the  Sea  of  Kamtchatka,  like  the  opposite 
part  of  America,  is  a  waste  of  snow-covered  rocks,  among  which  rise 
chains  of  lofty  mountains.  The  principal  of  these  chains  extends  south- 
ward through  the  Pacific  from  the  (JOth  parallel  of  latitude,  forming  the  great 
peninsula  of  Kamtchatka:  south  of  which  stretch  the  Kurile  Islands, 
south  of  these  the  Japan  Islands,  and  still  farther  south,  the  Philip- 
pine Islands;  all  forming  parts  of  the  same  line  of  volcanoes  which 
extends  along  the  west  coasts  of  North  America.  The  only  place  of 
importance  in  Kamtchatka  is  Petropawlowsk,  a  small  town  situated  on 
the  Bay  of  Avatscha,  in  the  south-east  part  of  the  peninsula,  in  latitude 
of  53  degrees  58  minutes.  Near  the  point  where  the  peninsula  joins 
the  continent  stands  another  sruaii  town,  called  Ochotsk,  on  the  north- 
ernmost yhore  of  the  Gulf  of  Ochotsk,  which  separates  Kamtchatka  from 
the  main  land  on  the  west. 

The  Kurile  Islands  are  twenty-two  in  number,  of  which  nineteen  are 
subject  to  Russia,  and  the  others  to  Japan,  The  Russian  Islands  form 
one  district  of  the  Russian  American  Company's  possessions;  they  are 
all  small,  and  of  little  value,  many  of  them  being  entirely  without  springs 
of  fresh  water.  The  Russians  have  but  one  establishment  on  them, 
called  Semussir,  in  Urup,  the  southernmost  of  the  islands,  from  which 
some  seal-skins  are  annually  carried  to  Petropawlowsk  and  Ochotsk. 


THE  SANDWICH   ISLANDS. 

These  islands,  sometimes  called  the  Hawaiian  Archipelago,  are  situ- 
ated in  the  north-west  division  of  the  Pacific,  nearly  due  south  of  Aliaska, 
and  west  of  the  southern  extremity  of  California,  at  nearly  equal  distances 
—  that  is,  about  two  thousand  five  hundred  miles  —  from  each  of  those 
parts  of  Anverica,  and  from  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco.  Their  distance 
from  Canton  is  about  five  thousand  miles.  They  are  ten  in  number, 
extending,  in  a  curved  line,  about  three  hundred  miles  in  length,  from  the 
lUth  degree  of  latitude,  north-westward,  to  the  22d :  their  whole  super- 
ficial  extent  is  estimated  at  six  thousand  six  hundred  square  miles,  and 
the  number  of  their  population,  by  the  latest  accounts,  was  about  one 
hundred  and  fifty  thousand. 

The  south-easternmost  of  the  islands,  embracing  two  thirds  of  the 
surface,  and  more  than  half  of  the  population,  of  the  whole,  is  Owyhee, 
(or  Hawaii,  according  to  the  orthography  adopted  by  the  American 
missionaries.*)  North-west  of  Owyhee  is  Mowee,  (or  Maui,)  the  second 
in  size  of  the  islands,  with  about  twenty  thousand  inhabitants.  Near 
Mowee,  on  the  west,  are  Tahoorowa,  (Kahulawe,)  Morokini,  (Molokini,) 
Ranai,  (Lanai,)  and  Morotai,  (Molokai,)  all  of  them  small  and  unimpor- 
tant.    Farther  in  the  same  direction  is  Woahoo,  (Oahu,)  nearly  as  large 

•  See  account  of  this  system  at  p.  330  of  the  History. 


46 


nr.nnnAPHY  or  thf.  sandwich  islands. 


and  populous  as  Mowee,  aud  perhaps  the  most  valuable  of  all  the  islands, 
agriculturally  and  commercially ;  and  eighty  miles  farther  west  are  the 
large  islimd  of  Atooi,  (Kauui,)  nnd  the  smaller  ones  of  Oneehow,  (Ni- 
hau,)  and  Tahoora,  (Kaula,)  which  complete  the  number  of  the  group. 

Tne  islands  arc  all  mountainous  and  volcanic.  On  Owyhee  are  three 
great  peaks — Mowna  Roa,  (Mauna  Loa,)  fourteen  thousand  feet  high, 
Mowna  Kea,  and  Mowna  Ilualalei,  from  which  eruptions  occasionally 
take  place  more  extensive  in  their  effects  than  any  otherR  on  record, 
except,  perhaps,  those  in  Iceland.  They,  nevertheless,  contain  large 
tracts  of  fine  land,  which,  imder  the  influence  of  a  regular  and  genial 
climate,  are  made  to  yield  all  the  productions  of  the  tropical,  and  many 
of  those  of  the  temperate  regions;  and  they  are  probably  destined  to  l)e 
to  the  countries  bordering  upon  the  North  Pacific  what  the  West  Indies 
are  to  those  on  the  North  Atlantic.  They  remain  in  the  possession  of 
their  aboriginal  occupants,  who  appear  to  evince  considerable  aptitude 
to  receive  inj^truction,  and  have,  with  the  aid  of  some  missionaries  from 
the  United  States,  established  a  regular  government,  in  the  form  of  a 
hereditary  monarchy,  under  constitutional  restrictions.  The  native 
population  is,  however,  rapidly  diminishing,  while  that  of  foreigners, 
especially  from  the  United  States,  is  increasing. 

The  principal  ports  in  the  islands  are  Honornru,  (Honolulu,)  on  the 
south  side  of  Woahoo,  and  Lahaina,  on  the  west  side  of  Mowee.  The 
town  of  Honoruru  contains  about  ten  thousand  inhabitants;  it  is  much 
frequented,  especially  by  the  whaling  vessels  of  the  United  States;  and 
property  to  a  great  amount  in  manufactured  articles,  provisions,  oil, 
&c.,  belonging  to  American  citizens,  is  often  deposited  there.  Owyhee 
has  no  good  harbor,  and  the  only  places  in  it  where  vessels  find  secure 
anchorage  are  the  Bays  of  Karakakooa,  (Kealakeakua,)  in  which  Captain 
Cook  was  murdered  in  1779,  and  Toyahyah,  (Kawaihae,)  on  the  west 
side  of  the  island. 


About  two  thousand  miles  south-east  from  the  Sandwich  Islands  are 
the  Mar(|i;°sas  Islands,  of  which  the  five  northernmost,  the  most  impor- 
tant in  the  group,  discovered  in  April,  1791,  by  Captain  Ingraham,  of 
the  brig  Hope,  of  Boston,  and  named  the  Washington  Islands,  were 
occupied,  in  1842,  by  the  French.  Six  hundred  miles  south-west  of 
these  lie  the  Society  Islands,  of  which  the  largest,  Otaheite,  or  Tahiti, 
according  to  the  new  nomenclature,  has  been  the  subject  of  conten- 
tion between  France  and  Great  Britain,  in  consequence  of  the  at- 
tempts of  the  former  power  to  take  possession  of  it.  The  Marquesas 
are  small,  rocky,  and  unproductive,  and  cannot  afford  support  to  more 
than  a  small  number  of  civilized  people;  so  that  the  French  will  proba- 
bly find  it  prudent  to  abandon  them.  Otaheite,  on  the  contrary,  contains 
a  large  extent  of  the  richest  soil,  and  has  every  other  requisite  for  a 
valuable  possession  to  a  maritime  and  commercial  nation. 


PROJECTS    FOR   CANALS    UNITING    THE    TWO    OCEANS. 


41 


PROJECTS  FOR  CANALS  UNITING  THE  TWO  OCEANS. 

It  will  also  be  proper,  in  conclusion,  to  ort't-r  soino  observations  on  a 
subject  wliicli  may  be  considered  worthy  of  interest  here,  from  its  ap- 
parent connection  with  the  destinies  of  North- West  America. 

The  only  means  of  communicntion  for  vessels  between  the  Atlantic 
and  the  Pacific  Oceans  at  present  known  or  believed  to  exist,  are  through 
the  seas  south  of  the  southern  extremities  of  America  and  Africa;  and 
each  of  these  routes  beniij  circuitous  and  dangerous,  the  (|uestion  as  lo 
tiie  practicability  of  a  canal,  for  the  passage  of  ships  tiirough  the  central 
parts  of  the  American  continent  where  those  seas  are  separated  by  narrow 
tracts  of  land,  has  been  fretiuently  agitated.  Humboldt,  in  his  justly- 
celebrated  essay  on  Mexico,  indicated  nine  places  in  America,  in  which 
the  waters  of  the  two  oceans,  or  of  streams  entering  into  them  respec- 
tively, are  situated  at  short  distances  apart.  Of  these  places  it  is  necessary 
here  to  notice  but  three,  to  each  of  which  attention  has  been  strongly 
directed,  at  diflferent  times,  and  especially  of  late  years,  in  the  expectation 
that  such  a  navigable  passage  for  ships  might  bt;  effected  through  it. 
They  are,  —  the  Isthmus  of  Panama  —  Nicaragua  —  and  the  Isthmus 
of  Tehuantepec. 

With  regard  to  the  last-mentioned  of  these  places,  it  has  been  deter- 
mined, by  accurate  surveys,  that  the  mountain  chain,  separating  the  two 
oceans,  is  nowhere  less  than  a  thousand  feet  in  height  above  the  level 
of  the  sea;  and  that  a  canal  connecting  the  River  Ciuasecuaico,  flowing 
into  the  Mexican  Gulf,  with  the  Pacific,  nmst  pass  through  an  open  cut 
of  nearly  that  depth,  or  a  tunnel,  in  either  case  more  than  thirty  miles 
in  length,  as  there  is  no  water  on  the  summit  to  supply  locks,  should  it 
be  found  practicable  to  construct  them.  The  Isthmus  of  Tehuantepec, 
however,  offers  many  advantages  for  travellers,  and  even  for  the  trans- 
portation of  precious  commodities,  especially  to  the  people  of  the  United 
States.  The  mouth  of  the  Guasecuaico  River,  on  its  northern  shore,  is 
less  than  seven  hundred  miles  from  the  mouth  of  the  Mississippi,  and 
only  one  hundred  miles  by  the  road  from  a  port  on  the  Pacific,  near 
Tehuantepec,  which  might  be  made  a  good  h'rbor;  so  that  even  now  a 
traveller  might  go  in  a  fortnight  from  Washiiigton  to  the  Pacific  coast, 
and  thence,  by  a  steam  vessel,  in  ten  d.-'ys  more,  to  the  mouth  of  the 
Columbia,  or  to  the  Sandwich  Islands. 

In  Nicaragua,  it  has  been  proposed  to  improve  the  navigation  of  the 
San  Juan  River,  from  its  mouth  on  the  Mosquito  coast,  to  the  great 
Lake  of  Nicaragua,  from  which  it  flows,  or  to  cut  a  canal  from  the 
Atlantic  to  that  lake,  whence  another  canal  should  be  made  to  the 
Pacific.  Now,  without  enumerating  the  many  other  obstacles  to  this 
plan,  any  one  of  them  sufficient  to  defeat  it,  were  all  things  besides  favor- 
able, it  may  be  simply  stated,  that  one  mile  of  tunnel  and  two  of  very 
deep  cutting  through  volcanic  rock,  in  addition  to  many  locks,  will  be 
required  in  the  fifteen  miles,  which,  by  the  shortest  and  least  difficult 
route,  must  be  passed  between  the  lake  and  the  Pacific.  Is  such  a  work 
practicable  ? 

The  Isthmus  of  Panama  remains  to  be  considered.  From  recent  ana 
minute  surveys,  it  has  been  proved  that  no  obstacles  to  a  ship-canal  are 
presented  by  the  surface  of  this  isthmus,  equal  to  those  which  have  been 

6 


42 


PROJECTS    FOR    CANALS    UNITING    THE    TWO    OCEANS. 


surmounted,  in  many  instances  of  :i  similar  nature,  in  Europe  and  in  the 
United  States.  On  the  other  hand,  the  country  contains  only  a  few 
inhabitants  of  the  most  wretclicd  description,  from  whose  assistance  in 
the  work  no  advantage  in  any  way  could  be  derived;  so  that  all  the 
laborers,  with  all  their  chuhes,  provisions,  and  tools,  must  be  transported 
thi  ler  from  u  distance.  The  heat  is  at  all  times  intense,  and  the  wet 
season  continues  during  eight  months  of  the  year  ;  the  rains  in  July, 
August,  September,  and  October,  being  incessant,  and  heavier,  perhaps, 
than  in  any  other  part  of  the  world.  As  to  salubrity,  there  is  a  differ- 
ence of  opinion ;  but  it  is  scarcely  possible  that  the  extremes  of  heat  and 
dampness,  which  are  there  combined,  could  be  otherwise  than  deleterious 
to  persons  from  Europe,  or  from  the  Northern  States  of  the  American 
Union,  by  whom  the  labor  of  cutting  a  canal  must  be  performed,  unless, 
indeed,  it  should  be  judged  proper  to  employ  negroes  from  the  West 
Indies  on  the  work. 

It  seems,  therefore,  that  a  canal  is  practicable  across  the  Isthmus  of 
Panama :  there  is,  however,  not  the  slightest  probability  that  it  will  be 
made  during  this  century,  if  ever ;  the  commercial  utility  of  such  a 
communication  being  scarcely  sulficient  to  warrant  the  enormous  ex- 
penses of  its  construction  and  maintenance.  Ships  from  Europe  or  the 
United  States,  bound  for  the  west  coasts  of  America,  or  the  N^  h 
Pucitic,  or  China,  woidd  probably  pass  through  it,  unless  the  tolls  should 
be  too  heavy ;  but  those  returning  from  China  would  pursue  the  route 
around  "  e  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  which  would  be,  in  all  respects,  more 
advantageous  for  them,  as  well  as  for  vessels  sailing  between  the  Atlantic 
coasts  and  India,  or  Australia.  Not  only  is  the  direct  distance  from  South 
Asia  and  Australia  to  the  Atlantic  coasts  greater  by  way  of  the  Pacific, 
but  vessels  taking  that  route  must  deviate  very  far  from  the  direct  course, 
in  order  to  avoid  the  trade  winrls,  which  blow  constantly  westward  over 
the  intertropical  parts  of  the  Pacific. 

As  regards  political  effects,  it  may  be  assumed  as  ceitain,  that,  should 
the  canal  be  made  by  any  company  or  nation  whatsoever,  it  will,  in 
time,  notwithstanding  any  precautions  by  treaty  or  otherwise,  become 
the  property  of  the  greatest  naval  power,  which  will  derive  a  vast  increase 
of  political  strength  from  the  possession. 


BOSTON,  APRIL,  1845. 

LITTLE  &  BROWN 

WILL    SHORTLY    PUBLISH, 

IN  ONE  VOLUME  3vO,  500  PAGES,  PRICE  §2  50. 

THE  HISTORY  OF  OKEGON  AND  CALIFORNIA, 

AND  THE  OTJER  TERRITORIES 

ON  ti;e 

NORTH-WEST   COAST  OF  NORTH  AMERICA; 

ACCGMi'ANIED    BY 

•       A   GEOGRAPHICAL   VIEW  AND   MAP  OF   THOSE  COUNTRIES, 

AND    A    NUMBER    OP    DOCUMENTS   AS 

PROOFS  AND  ILLUSTRATIONS  OF  THE  HISTORV. 


VY   ROBERT   GREENIIOW. 

Translnlor  ami  Lihrarian  to  the  Dppartment  of  Slate  of  »hc  Unitrd  States;  author  of  a 

Memoir,  hislorirnl  and  political,  on  the  T'orth  West  Coast  of  North  America, 

published  'u  1840,  hy  direttif":  ..f  ilie  Senate  of  the  United  Stales. 


This  work,  though  published  some  months  since  in  England,  has  not 
hitherto  appeared  in  the  United  States.  Congress  having  recently,  with 
great  liberality,  ordered  the  purchase  of  a  large  number  of  copies,  for  the 
use  of  the  government,  it  has  become  necessary  to  print  the  edition  now 
offered  to  the  public,  in  which  no  pains  have  been  spared  to  render  the 
work  accurate  and  complete. 

The  history  presents  accounts  clear,  and  sufficiently  detailed,  of  all  the 
discoveries  and  settlements  made  and  attempted,  in  the  countries  to  which  it 
relates,  and  of  all  the  disputes,  negotiations  and  treaties,  between  the  govern- 
ments i>f  civilized  nations,  respecting  them  ;  with  abundant  notices  of  dates 
and  authorities.  Among  the  proofs  and  illustrations  annexed,  arc  copies  of 
all  the  treaties  above  mentioned,  and  of  many  other  documents,  throwing 
light  upon  the  history,  some  of  the  most  important  of  which  are  thus  for 
the  first  time  published.  The  Geographical  Sketch  which  has  been  writ- 
ten anew  for  this  edition,  and  much  enlarged,  contains,  it  is  believed,  the 
most  full  and  correct  view  of  the  territories  on  the  western  side  of  North 
America  as  yet  presented.  The  Map  embraces  the  whole  division  of  the 
continent  west  of  the  Mexican  Gulf,  Lake  Superior  and  Hudson's  Straits; 
including  .also  the  coasts  of  the  Arctic  Sea,  a  part  of  Asia,  and  the  Sand- 
wich Islands  ;  it  is  in  size,  24  inches  by  20,  beautifully  engraved  on  cop- 
per, from  a  drawing  made  under  the  eye  of  the  author,  from  the  most  re- 
cent authorities  on  every  part.  The  table  of  contents,  which  is  annexed, 
has  been,  as  well  as  the  Index,  carefully  drawn  up,  so  as  to  afford  every 
facility  for  references. 

On  the  other  side  of  this  leaf  will  be  seen  a  specimen  page  of  the  his- 
tory ;  the  Geographical  Sketch  and  documents,  are  printed  in  the  type 
used  for  this  advertisement. 


120 


HECETA    DISCOVERS    A    GREAT    RIVER. 


[1775. 


50th  degree  of  latitude,  (on  the  south-west  side  of  the  great  island 
of  Vancouver  and  Quadra,)  and,  passing  by  the  Port  San  Lorenzo, 
(Nootka  Sound,)  discovered  in  the  })revious  year  by  Perez,  he  came 
on  the  coast  of  the  continent  near  the  48th  parallel,  without  observ- 
ing the  intermediate  entrance  of  the  Strait  of  Fuca,  for  which  he, 
however,  sought  between  the  47th  and  48th  parallels.  Thence  he 
ran  along  the  shore  towards  the  south,  and,  on  the  15th  of  August, 
arrived  opposite  an  opening,  in  the  latitude  of  46  degrees  17  min- 
utes, from  which  rushed  a  current  so  strong  as  to  preven*  his  enter- 
ing it.  This  circumstance  convinced  him  that  it  was  tiie  mouth  of 
some  great  rive.-,  or,  perhaps,  of  the  Strait  of  Fuca,  which  might, 
have  been  erroneously  placed  on  his  chart:  he,  in  consequence, 
remained  in  its  vicinity  another  day,  in  the  hope  of  ascertaining 
the  true  character  of  the  place ;  but,  being  still  unable  to  enter  the 
opening,  he  continued  his  voyage  towards  the  south.* 

On  the  opening  in  the  coast  thus  discovered  Heceta  bestowed 
the  name  of  Ensmada  de  Asuudon-\  —  Assumption  Inlet ;  calling  the 
point  on  its  north  side  Cape  San  Roque,  and  that  on  the  south  Cape 
Frondoso  —  Leafy  Cape.  In  the  charts  published  at  Mexico,  soon 
after  tjie  con  lusion  of  th'^  voyage,  the  entrance  is,  however,  called 
Ensenada  de  Heceta  —  Heceta' s  Inlet  —  and  liio  de  San  Roque  — 
River  of  St.  Roc.  It  was,  undoubtedly,  the  mouth  of  the  greatest 
river  on  the  western  side  of  America  ;  the  same  which  was,  in  1792, 
first  entered  by  the  ship  Columbia,  from  Boston,  under  the  command 
of  Robert  Gray,  and  has  ever  since  been  called  the  Columbia. 
The  evidence  of  its  first  disco"'3ry  by  Heceta,  on  the  15lh  of  August, 
1775,  is  unquestionable. 

From  Assumption  Inlet,  Ileceta  continued  his  course,  alon'^  the 
shore  of  the  continent,  towards  the  south,  and  arrived  at  Monterey, 
with  nearly  two  thirds  of  his  men  sick,  on  the  30th  of  August.  In 
his  journal,  he  particularly  describes  mnny  places  on  this  port  of  the 
coast  which  are  now  well  known  ;  such  as —  tlic  romarkablr  promon- 
tory, in  the  latitude  of  45J  degrees,  with  small,  rocKy  islets  in  front, 
named  by  him  Caj^,y.  Falcon,  the  Cape  Lookout  of  our  ma|)s  —  the 
flat-topped  mountain,  overhanging  the  ocean,  a  little  farther  south, 
noted,  in  his  journal,  as  La  Mesa,  or  The   Table,  which,  in  1805, 


*  Spc  extract  from  the  Journal  of  Hoccta,  among  the  Proofs  and  Illustrations, 
under  the  letter  E,  in  the  latter  part  of  this  volume. 

i  The  15th  of  August  is  the  day  of  the  Assumption,  and  the  16th  is  the  day  of  St. 
Roque,  or  Roc,  and  St.  Jacinto,  or  Hyacinth,  according  to  the  Roman  Catholic 
calendar. 


TABLE    OF    CONTENTS, 


t. 


GEOGRAPHY    OF    THE  WESTERN    SECTION    OF    NORTH 

AMERICA. 


GENERAL    VIEW. 


1 


Great  Natural  Divisions  of  N.  America,  3 — (,"oasts  on  tlie  Pacific  and  the  Arctic  Seas, 
4  —  Mountain  Ciiains  of  the  Pacific  Section — Kar-\Vost  Mountains,  3  —  Kocity  Moun- 
tains—  Blue  Mountains,  6  —  Climate  of  tho  I'acific  Section  —  Lal^os,  7  —  Hivcrs,  8  — 
Central  [tegions  of  IN.  America  —  Animals  and  Vei;etal)ies  of  the  Pacific  Section  —  Na- 
tives, 9 —  Establish.nentsofcivilized  Nations,  10 — Political  Limits,  II. 


t 


CALIFORNIA. 

Extent  and  Divisions  —  Gulf  of  California,  12 — Pearl  Fishery  —  Sonora  and  Sinnloa,  13  — 
Peninsula  of  California  —  Its  Climate,  Soil,  Productions,  ai.d  Animals,  14 — Aboriijines^ 
Ports  and  Mexican  Settlements,  I.)  —  (Joiitinental  or  New  .California — Its  Kxteiit,  Soil, 
Climat  IG -^  F'orts  and  Mexican  Settlenients — Snn  Diepo,  Santa  Barbara  —  Monterey, 
17  —  San  Francisco  —  River  Sacramento,  Ifi  —  Bodega  —  Cape  Mondociiio,  19 —  Interior 
liegions  —  River  Colorado  —  Utah  Lake,  ^0. 


OREGON. 

Natural  and  assumed  Boundaries,  21 — Strait  of  Fuca,  22 — Columbia  River  —  North 
Itrauch,  23  —  South  Branch  —  Main  Trunlt,  2'  —  Far- West  Mountains,  2j  — Westernmost 
Picaion  of  Oregon,  26  —  Blue  Mountains  —  Middle  Region  —  F.a3ternmost  or  Hocky 
Mountain  Region,  27  —  New  Caledonia,  2(1  —  North-West  Archipelago,  2D — Aborigines, 
30 — Hudson's  Bay  Company's  F.stablishraents,  31  —  American  Settlements,  33. 


RUSSIAN    AMERICA. 


Extent  and  Limits — Russian  American  Company,  3fi  —  District  of  Sitka  —  Sitka  or  New 
Archangel  —  District  of  Kodir.k,  37  —  Cook's  Inlet  —  I'rince  William's  Sound  —  Mount 
St.  Elias  —  Aliaska  —  Aleutian  Islands  —  Michaelof  District,  38 — Kamtchatka  —  Kurile 
Islands,  39. 


Sandwich   Islands,  39 — Marquesas   Islands — Society   Islands,  40  —  Projects  for    Canalt 
uniting  the  Atlantic  and  Pacific  Oceans,  41. 

C 


XIV 


CONTENTS. 


HISTORY  OF   OREGON   AND  CALIFORNIA,   ETC. 


CHAPTER   1 . 

TO  1543. 

Proliminary  Observations,  45 — Efforts  of  the  Snaiiiards  to  discover  Western  Paasatfes  to 
India  —  Successive  Discoveries  of  the  West  Indies,  the  North  American  Continent,  the 
Eastern  Passage  to  India,  Brazil,  and  the  Pacific  Ocean,  -U't  —  Search  for  a  navigable  Pas- 
sage connecting  the  Atlantic  and  the  Pacific  Oceans  —  Supposed  Discovery  of  such  a  Pas- 
sage, called  the  Strait  qf  ^nirtn,  4-7 — Discovery  of  Magellan's  Strait  and  the  Western 
Passage  to  India, 't8  —  Conquest  of  Mexico  by  Cortes,  who  endeavors  to  discover  new 
countries  farther  north-west,  50  —  Voyages  of  Maldonado,  Ilurtado  de  Mendoza,  Grijalva, 
and  Becerra,  54 — Discovery  of  California  —  Expedition  of  Cortes  to  California,  55 —  Pre- 
tended Discoveries  of  Friar  Marcos  de  JNiza,  59  —  Voyages  of  Ulloa,  Alarcon,and  Cabrillo, 
60  —  Expeditions  of  Coronado  and  Soto,  lil  —  The  Spaniards  desist  from  their  Efforts  to 
explore  the  Worth- West  Coasts  of  America,  G5. 


C  H  A  P  T  E  R    1  1 . 
1543  TO  1608. 

The  Spaniards  conquer  the  Philippine  Islands,  and  establish  a  direct  Trade  across  the  Pacific, 
between  Asia  ancl  America,  6()  —  Measures  of  the  Spanish  Government  to  prevent  other 
European  Mations  from  settling  or  trading  in  America,  G8 — These  Measures  resisted  by 
the  English,  the  French,  and  the  Dutch  —  Free  Traders  and  Freebooters  infest  the  West 
Indies,  70 — First  Voyages  of  the  English  in  the  Pacific,  72  —  Voyages  of  Drake  and  Cav- 
endish, 73  —  Endeavors  of  the  English  to  discover  a  JNorth-West  Passage  from  the  Atlan- 
tic to  the  Pacific,  77  —  False  Reports  of  the  Discovery  of  such  Passages,  78  —  Supposed 
Voyages  of  Urdaneta,  Maldonado,  and  Font^,  79 —  Voyage  of  Juan  de  Fuca,  S'i  —  Expedi- 
tions of  Sebastian  Vizcaino,  90  —  Supposed  Discovery  of  a  great  River  in  North- West 
America,  93, 


CHAPTER    Hi. 

1608  TO  17G8. 

The  North-West  Coasts  of  North  America  reiTinin  nearly  neglected  during  the  whole  ol  this 
Period,  96  —  Efforts  of  the  English  and  the  Dutch  to  find  new  Passages  into  the  Pacific  — 
Discovery  of  Hudson's  Bay  and  Baflin's  Bay,  97  —  Discovery  of  the  Passage  around  Cape 
Horn  —  Establishment  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Trading  Company  —  Endeavors  of  the  Span- 
iards to  settle  Califoniia  unsuccessful,  98  —  The  Jesuits  undertake  the  Reduction  of  Cal- 
ifornia, 99 —  Establishments  of  the  Jesuits  in  the  Peninsula,  100,  and  their  Expulsion  from 
the  Spanish  Dominions,  106. 


CHAPTER    IV 


1769  TO  1779. 


A 


First  Establishments  on  the  West  Coast  of  California  founded  by  the  Spaniards,  108  —  Dis- 
pute between  Spain  and  Great  Britain  respecting  the  Falkland  Islands,  111 — Exploring 
Voyages  of  the  Spaniards  under  Perez,  114,  Heceta  and  Bodega,  117,  and  Arteaga  and  Bo- 
dega, 125  —  Discovery  of  Nootka  Sound,  Norfolk  Sound,  and  the  Mouth  of  the  Columbia 
River,  120  —  Importance  of  these  Discoveries,  124. 


CONTENTS. 


XT 


CHAPTER    V 


1711  TO  1779. 


Discoveries  of  the  Russians  from  Kamtchatka — Voyages  of  Bering  and  Tchirikof  to  the 
Arctic  Sea  ard  to  the  American  Continent,  129 —  Establishments  of  the  Russian  Fur  Tra- 
ders in  the  Aleutian  Islwd*,  1:-^  —  Vovaffes  of  Synd,  Krenitzin,  and  Levashef,  137  —  F'irst 
Voyage  from  Kamtchatka  to  China,  made  by  Polish  Exiles  under  Bcnyowsky,  138  —  General 
Inaccuracy  of  the  Ideas  of  the  Russians  respecting  the  Geography  of  the  northernmost 
CoasU  of  the  Pacific,  before  1779, 139. 


to 

[the 
[as- 
fafl. 
!rn 
lew 
va, 
re- 

lo, 
to 


CHAPTER    VI 


1763  TO  1780. 


Great  Britain  obtains  Possession  of  Canada,  140  —  Journey  of  Carver  to  the  Upper  Missis- 
sippi, 141  —  First  Mention  of  the  Oregon  River,  142  —  Inaccuracy  of  Carver's  Statements, 
144  —  Journeys  of  Hearne  through  the  Regions  west  of  Hudson's  Bay,  143  —  Voyage  of 
Captain  Cook  to  the  North  Pacihc,  147 — His  important  Discoveries  m  that  Quarter,  and 
Death,  157 — Return  of  his  Ships  to  Europe;  Occurrences  at  Canton  during  their  Stay  in 
that  Port,  138. 


CHAPTER    VII 


1780  TO  1789. 


er 
by 

ist 

V- 

II- 
!d 
i- 
it 


Commercial  Results  of  Cook's  Discoveries.  ICO — Settlements  of  the  Russians  in  America, 
161  — Scheme  of  Ledyard  for  the  Trade  of  the  North  Pacific,  1G2 — Voyage  of  La  P«'rouse, 
1G3  —  Direct  Trade  between  the  American  Coasts  and  Canton  commenced,  165  —  Voyages 
of  the  English  Fty  Traders  —  Re-discovery  of  the  Strait  of  Fuca,  171 — Voyage  of 
Meares,  who  endeavors  to  find  a  great  River  described  by  the  SpaniardK,  175 — First 
Voyages  from  the  United  States  to  the  South  Pacific,  and  to  "Canton,  179  —  Voyage  of  the 
Columbia  and  Washington,  under  Kendrick  and  Gray,  from  Boston  to  tiie  North  Pa- 
cific, 180. 


CHAPTER    VIII, 


1788  AND  1789. 


Uneasiness  of  the  Spanish  Government  at  the  Proceedings  of  the  Fur  Traders  in  the  Nortli 
Pacific,  183 — Voyages  of  Observation  by  Martinez  and  Haro  to  the  Russian  American 
Settlements,  185  —  Remonstrances  of  the  Court  of  Madrid  to  that  of  St.  Petersburg, 
against  the  idleged  Encroachments  of  the  latter  Power,  18(i  —  Martinez  and  Haro  sent  by  the 
Viceroy  of  Mexico  to  take  Possession  of  Nootka  Sound,  187  —  Claims  of  Spain  examined, 
188  —  Seizure  of  British  and  other  Vessels  at  Nootka  by  Martinez,  191  —  C*-  >tain  Gray, 
in  the  Washington,  explores  the  East  (^oast  of  Queen  Charlotte's  island,  ar.  enters  the 
Strait  of  Fuca,  199 —  kendrick,  in  the  Washington,  passes  through  the  Strait  of  Fuca— 
Return  of  the  Columbia  to  the  United  States,  200. 


CHAPTER    IX. 


1790. 


Controversy  between  Great  Britain  and  Spain  respecting  the  North-West  Coasts  of  America 
and  the  I^avigation  of  thn  Pacific,  202  —  The  Owners  of  the  Vessels  seized  at  Nootka 
apply  for  Redress  to  the  British  Government,  which  demands  Satisfaction  for  the  alleged 
Outrages,  S!03  —  Spain  resists  the  Demand,  and  calls  on  France  for  Aid,  agreeably  to  the 


XVI 


CONTENTS. 


Family  Compact,  207  —  Proceedings  in  the  National  Assembly  of  France  on  the  Subject, 
208  —  Spain  engages  to  imleninify  the  Uritisii  Cor  the  Property  seized,  205  —  Further  De- 
mands of"  Great  Britain  —  Designs  of  Pitt  against  Spanish  America,  20C  —  Secret  Mediation 
of  France,  through  which  tho  Dispute  is  settliid,  209  —  Convention  of  October^  1790, 
called  the  Nootka  Treaty,  210 — Proceedings  in  Parliament,  and  Reflections  on  this  Con- 
vention,  211. 


CHAPTER    X 


1790  TO  1792. 


Vancou'  er  s"  t  by  the  British  Government  to  explore  tho  Coasts  of  America,  and  receive 
Possession  of  Lauds  and  Buildings  agreeably  to  the  Convention  with  Spain,  2iG  —  Passage 
of  the  VVashington,  under  Kendrick,  through  the  Strait  of  Fuca,  in  1789,  218 — Nootka  re- 
occutiied  by  the  Spaniards,  220  —  Vovages  of  Fidalgo,  Quimper,  Elisa,  Billings,  Marchand, 
and  Malaspiiia.  221  —  Voyages  of  me  Ameii(;an  h ur  Traders,  Gray,  Inijraham,  and  Ken- 
drick,  22-1! — Discovery  of  the  VVashington  Islands  by  Ingraham,  22G. 


CHAPTER    XI. 

1792  TO  179C. 


Vancouver  and  Broughton  arrive  on  the  American  Coasts  in  1792,  and  meet  with  Gray,  who 
informs  them  of  ins  Discovery  of  the  C()luml)ia  River,  23.'$  —  The  Strait  of  Fuca  surveyed 
by  Vancouver,  Galiano,  and  Valdes,  238  —  Negotiations  between  Vancouver  and  Quadra 
at  Nootka,  21.3  —  Vancouver's  Injustice  to  the  Americans,  2W,  21.8, 256  —  Broughton's  Ex- 
amination of  the  Lower  Part  of  the  Columbi^i  River,  2 17 —  Vancouver's  Proceedings  at  the 
Sandwich  Islands,  219  —  Ho  completes  the  Survey  of  the  North- West  Coasts  of  America, 
and  returns  to  England,  25.5  —  The  Spaniards  akindon  Nootka,  2o7  —  Conclusions  with 
Regard  to  the  Dispute  between  Groat  Britain  and  Spain,  and  the  Convention  of  1790,  258. 


CHAPTER    XII. 


17S8  TO  1610. 


^ 

' 


Estiblishmcpf  of  the  North-West  Fur  Tradin;;  Company  of  Montreal,  in  1781,2^1  — Expedi- 
tions of  Mackenzie  to  the  Arctic  Sea  and  to  the  Pacific  Coast,  2(13  —  The  i'rade  between 
the  North  I'licific  ("oiists  of  America  ami  ('anto.i  coii(hicted  almost  exclusively  by  Vessels 
of  tho  United  States  from  I7lt6  to  181t,  "KJti — Establishment  of  the  Russian  American 
Company,  -269  —  Its  Settlrmmts  and  Faciories  on  tho  American  Coasts,  270  —  Expedition 
of  KruHor-iern  tlirougli  the  North  Pacific,  272  —  Proposition  of  the  Russian  Government 
to  that  of  the  United  States,  witli  Regard  to  the  Trade  of  the  North  Pacific,  275. 


CHAPTER    XIII 


ltJ03  TO  1806. 


Cession  of  Louisiana  hv  Franco  to  the  United  States,  27fi  —  Inciuirins  as  to  tho  true  Extent 
of  Louisiana,  277 — I'.rroneous  Supposition  that  its  Limits  towards  the  North  had  been 
fixed  by  Commissaries  ag.-oeably  to  the  Treaty  of  rtre(^ht,281  —  President  Jefferson  seudn 
Lewis  and  Clarke  to  examine  the  JVIisHDiiri  and  Columbia,  28-1-— .  Accoant  of  their  Expedi- 
tion from  the  Mississippi  to  the  Pacific,  285. 


CONTENTS. 


XVU 


CHAPT'SU    XIV 


1806  TO  1815. 


First  Establishments  of  the  North- West  Company  in  the  Countries  north  of  the  Columbia, 
290 — Pacilic  Fur  Company  formed  .it  iSew  York,  iD-  — I'laa  of  jts  Founder,  293 — First 
Expedition  from  New  York  in  the  Tonquin,  Wo — Foundation  of  Astoria  near  the  Mouth 
of  the  Columbia  River,  296  —  March  of  the  Party  under  Hunt  and  Crooks  across  the 
Continent,  298  —  Arrival  of  the  Beaver  in  the  (."olumbla,  299  —  Destruction  of  the  Ton- 
quin by  the  Sav.Tpcs,  M)  —  War  between  tlie  United  States  and  dreat  Britain  fatal  to  the 
Kntcq)rise,  ^)1  —  Kstabhdhnicnts  of  the  I'aciiio  (,'onipany  sold  to  the  North- West  Com- 
pany, 3tXl —  Astoria  taken  by  tlie  Britibh,  JOl — Dusolutiou  of  the  Pacific  Company,  J05. 


CHAPTER    XV 


1814  TO  1820. 

Restitution  of  Astoria  to  the  United  States  by  Great  Britain,  a|?reeably  to  the  Treaty  of 
Ghent,  309— Alleged  Reservation  of  Rights  on  the  Part  of  Groat  Britain,  310  — First  Ne- 
gotiation between  the  Governments  of  (ireat  Britaie  and  the  United  States  respecting  the 
j'crritorivs  west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  Convention  for  the  joint  Occupancy  of 
thosi'  'J'erritorif's,  311— •Florida  Treaty  between  Spain  and  the  United  States,  oy  which 
the  I, alter  acquires  the  Title  of  Spain  to  the  North-West  Coasts,  T13  —  ("olonel  Long's 
exploring  K.xpedition  to  the  Rocky  Mountains,  322  —  Disputes  between  the  British  North- 
West  and  Hudson's  Bay  Companies,  Sit — Union  of  those  Bodies  —  Act  of  Parliament 
extending  the  Jurisdiction  of  tlie  Canada  Courts  to  the  Pacific  Countries,  325  — R'issian 
Establishments  on  the  North  Pacific,  327 — Expeditions  in  Search  of  Northern  P.issages 
between  the  Atlantic  and  the  Pacific,  32G  —  Death  of  Taniahamaha,  and  Introduction  of 
Christianity  into  tlic  Sandwich  Islands,  329. 


CHAPTER    XVI. 

1820  TO  1828. 


A 


Bill  reported  by  a  Committee  of  the  House  of  Representatives  of  the  United  Stales,  for  the 
Occupation  of  the  Columbia  River,  ;i'31  —  Ukase  of  the  Emperor  of  Russia,  with  Regard  to 
the  North  Pacific  (.'oasts.  332  — Negotiations  between  the  Governments  of  Great  Britain, 
Russia,  and  the  United  States,  33.')  —  Conventions  between  the  United  States  and  Russia, 
and  between  Great  Britain  and  Russia,  3H —Further  Negotiations  between  the  United 
States  and  (ireat  Britain  relative  to  the  North-West  Coasts,  3H-  —  Indefini'j  Extension  of 
the  Arrangement  for  the  joint  Occupancy  of  the  Territories  west  of  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains, by  the  British  and  the  Americans,  3^1. 


CHAPTER    XVU 
1823  TO  1843. 


Few  Citizens  of  the  Unit'^d  States  in  the  Countries  west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  between 
1813  and  1!523,  ;J3<)  — Trading  Expeditions  of  Ashley,  Sublette,  Smith,  Pilclier,  Pattie, 
Bonneville,  and  Wyeth,  .'JoT  —  Missionaries  from  the  United  States  form  Establishments 
on  the  Columbia,  3fi0  —  First  Printing  Press  set  up  in  Oregon,  %l  — Opposition  of  tne  Hud- 
son's Bay  Compaiiv  to  the  Americans;  how  exerted,  '.Hj'J — (Jonlroversy  between  the 
United  States  and  Russia,  .'V)2  —  Dispute  between  the  Hudson's  Bay  and  the  Russian 
American  (Companies;  how  terminated,  363  —  California,  ;}(i3  —  Capture  of  Monterey  by 
Commodore  Jones,  .'i63  —  The  Sandwich  Islands,  ."Vi'J — Proceedings  of  the  Missionaries, 
370 — Expulsion  of  the  Catholic  Priests,  and  their  Reinstatement  by  a  French  Force, 
372  —  The  Sandwich  Islands  temporarily  occupied  by  the  British,  374  —  Exploring  Eipe- 
dition  of  the  Americans  under  Wilkes,  375. 


XVIll 


CONTENTS. 


C  H  A  I'  1  i:  11    X  V  1  1  I , 


ld.l2  TO  1845. 


Excitnninnt  in  thn  United  States  rospcrtinp  Oregon,  ;(7G  —  Bill  in  tlin  Senate  for  the  imme- 
<liiite  Occupation  of  Orojjon,  .'Hi'  —  That  Hill  inconsistent  with  the  Convention  of  l<i'27, 
between  the  United  States  and  (ireat  IJritain,  ;'.!!!! — Kenewal  of  INegotiations  between 
the  Lnited  States  and  Great  Britain — Kiniffrations  from  the  I  iiited  States  to  Oregon, 
3yi  —  State  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company's  Possessions,  3'J3  — Conclusion. 


PROOFS  AND  ILLUSTRATIONS. 


A. 

Oricinal  Account  of  the  Voyage  of  the  Creek  Pilot  Juan  do  Fuca  along  the  North-West 
Coasts  of  America  in  151)2 407 

B. 

Furs  and  the  Fur  Trade 411 

C. 

Correspondence  between  the  Spanish  Commandant  at  Nootka  Sound,  and  the  Masters  of  the 
American  trading  Vessels  Columbia  and  Hope,  respecting  the  Occurrences  at  that  Place 
in  tlie  Summer  of  1789 413 

D. 

Original  Documents  relative  to  the  Dispute  between  Great  Britain  and  Spain,  in  1790.  .  418 

E. 

Original  Documents  relative  to  the  Discovery  of  the  Columbia  River,  by  the  Spaniards  and 
tlic  Americans 430 

F. 

Showing  that  the  Forty-ninth  Parallel  of  Latitude  was  not  selected  as  the  Line  of  Separation 
between  the  French  and  the  British  Territories  in  North  America,  by  Commissioners  ap- 
pointed agreeably  to  the  Treaty  of  Utrecht 436 

G. 

Papers  relative  to  the  American  Establishment  of  Astoria,  on  the  Columbia  River.   .    .    439 

H. 

Statements  presented  on  each  side  in  the  course  of  the  Conferences,  held  at  London,  in  De- 
cember 1826,  between  Messrs.  Huskisson  and  Addington,  the  British  Plenipotentiaries,  and 
Mr.  Gallatin,  the  Minister  Plenipotentiary  of  the  United  States 446 

L 

Documents  relating  to  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company ^ 4G5 

K. 

Treaties  and  Conventions  relative  to  the  North-West  Territories  of  North  America.     ,    476 


f- 


